So this was a short break to celebrate my 75th birthday by visiting my home town of Chesterfield. Below – the famous Crooked Spire by Night
My habit when making reasonably long rail journeys is to search around for cheaper tickets by splitting the journey. So this day it was Paignton to Bristol Parkway and then Bristol Parkway to Birmingham New Street – both by CrossCountry and very different!
I started with the 10.14 to Manchester which got very full well before Bristol. Very little information from train staff over the PA. Tickets never checked after Newton Abbot. No sign of a trolley or advice as to where it was. Glad to get off.
The train from Parkway was totally different. Only ½ full, helpful train manager and genial trolley man. I then get an onward Crosscountry to Birmingham. Believe it or not – on a busy Friday just one 4-car unit from Plymouth to Edinburgh. Despite a kind passenger letting me use his seat I got off at Burton on Trent, crossed the road and got a free bus to Derby.
Tempted to walk to station calling at a free house en route but decided that a bus was easier. Then a short trip to Chesterfield and a short but not cheap taxi ride to the Ibis Hotel. Broke the home made walking stick I’d brought getting out of the taxi. Kept the handle for future use!
Ibis pretty basic – not quite up to Premier Inn standards but comfortable enough. Rest.
Out about 7.30 and call in the Spa Lane Vaults – a Wetherspoons – for ham egg and chips with a soft drink (Didn’t actually drink in a ‘Spoons all weekend – just had cheap food!). Walk through the town but not too far without a stick. Over to the Neptune Beer Emporium for some Thornbridge Lord Marples. Usual good range of beers as there was at my next stop -the Chesterfield Arms. Had an external make-over – see picture
– and now of course selling beer from their on-site Resting Devil Brewery. I assume the ‘Resting Devil’ is the one who allegedly sat on the top of the church spire and twisted it! A pint of that brewery’s ‘Twisted Pale’ which I eventually voted as the best beer of the weekend.
A bus back into town and to the Rutland Arms. Recently re-opened but still a similar range of beers including Neepsend Blonde. Return to the hotel.
24th June 2023
Priorities for today – Breakfast and Walking Stick!
To Andreas Pantry across from Premier Inn for the usal good breakfast. Down to the market and quickly find a reasonably priced walking stick (to be called ‘ Old Hooky!) and head for the Baslow Bus. Here is ‘Old Hooky on the 170 bus.
Quite busy and very noisy. A ‘gang’ of mothers and children and it is the mothers who make the noise. They also get off at Baslow but luckily head off thewards the park. Peace.
Peace – but no bus. This is supposed to be the new hourly Hulleys Open-top Breezer service to Castleton. But it doesnt appear. A cup of tea from the sweet shop. Enquiries of other Hulleys drivers gives no help. So walk off to the edge of the park and then back again. Eventually a ‘Breezer’ does appear but not an open top. It is still a pleasant ride via Calver, Grindleford, Fox House, Surprise View, Hathersage, Hope and to Castleton.
It now seems certain that a visit to Castleton involves at least a beer at the Olde Nags Head which doesn’t disappoint. I had an American Pale but forgot to note the brewery. Service here always good.
A quick browse in Blue John Shop and back to the bus station.
I had noticed on the way through Hope that it was a Wakes Week with Well Dressings and Scarecrows so catch (the same) bus back. Find a few of the dressings etc.
Considered a walk to the Cheshire Cheese but too hot. Therefore a roll eaten in the shadow of the churchyard trees and then into the Old Hall Hotel to cool off. And a good pint of Wainwright Gold.
Now the question is back via Bakewell or Sheffield. Choose the latter and as it is mid afternoon by now cross straight to catch the X17 back to town rather than going to Kelham Island. From the bus stop in town take the wrong route to try to get to hotel which has barriers everywhere and no crossings. A rest for a good while.
Out early evening into town – a beef slice from Greggs then the bus to Whittington Moor for the 3 good pubs there.
But first a portion of chips to complete my tea!
Derby Tup is open – and it doesn’t change. A wide range of beers but I settle for Abbeydale Moonshine – a good reliable Sheffield beer.
Then the short walk to the Beer Parlour which is quite busy. Pennine Brewery ‘Hair of the Dog’. Pleasant.
To the Glass Works which is comparatively quiet. North Brewery Special Reserve. All 3 pubs have prices under £4.
Then the last bus trip of the day back into town. Walk down to a pub I have not visited for years as not had any reputation for beer. But the Spread Eagle has been ‘done up’ at great cost by the look of it. No customers – just 3 staff sitting around but welcoming. A pint of Ashover Littlemoor Citra is very good and so I have a second before walking down to the hotel.
25th June
As cafes are generally not open on Sundays for breakfast have a very ordinary one at Wetherspoons – overcooked egg probably sitting on grill for ages. Have to wait for Tesco to open to get a paper. Also a brief visit to Queens Park which is a s pretty as always.
Was hoping to go to Crich Tramway Museum but no buses on Sundays. The X17 to Matlcock now extends further south so decide to go to Cromford Mils (Arkwrights place). Very hot again.
As I get off the bus I notice that there is a Free Beer Festival on at the Mills. Doesn’t open till 12 thank goodness so sit in the grounds watching Mountain Rescue demo – abseiling off cliff. Sit reading the paper and have a look round the mills shops etc.
Walk over to the start of the Cromford Canal and then into the grounds where there is a small but elegantly built church. Also wood sculptures in the grounds..
By now the allotted time has passed and sit in large tent with a pint from the local Bentley Brook Brewery. Apparently there is music in the evenings.
Walk back into the village and as there is a northbound bus in 10 minutes I wait rather than a pint in the Boat or going for a sandwich. The ‘Fives’ bus takes me back to Bakewell and I have a pasty in the park.
It is only 2 o’clock ish so again I go via Sheffield. Again decide it is too hot to go beer hunting and this time a trian back to Chesterfield and a walk to the hotel.
I rest for a good while as suffering the effects of the heat.
Again a small meal at Spa Lane Vaults- fish and chips.
To the Neptune but can’t remember the beer. To Chesterfield Arms -Everards Sunchaser and another Resting Devil before the bus back to town.
Last pub of the day is the Pig and Pump for a pint of Ossett White Rat before they call last orders.
To the Hotel.
26th June
Not a great night’s sleep due to heat. Pack and head up to Elder Way but the good cafe has not yet opened. Go and bank a cheque and go to small cafe in the Shambles for a reasonable breakfast. Purchase the usual tomato sausage and black pudding and head for the bus station. The Comet to Derby is slightly late but I have ages at Derby and Birmingham.
Also held up by the usual stupid roadworks with 4-way lights on a roundabout protecting a pile of rubble. No workers of course!
It would not be lunchtime in Derby without a trip to the Exeter Arms and an excellent pint of Ay Up from Dancing Duck Brewery. Was too ealry for lunch nut did not see the famous pork pies advertised.
Also pass back via the bus station and walk to the equally good Alexandra and a pint of Little Brewery Foxx. A naturally cloudy beer. On leaving I note a CAMRA discount which I have never used there.
Already bought my ticket to Birmingham on-line and it is on my phone. A reasoanbably quiet train and over an hour to wait at New Street.
I wander aimlessly around the vast shopping centre with food and bars but not intending to spend anything. Except of course some lunch by way of a roll from Upper Crust.
As expected the train onwards is fairly busy but I have a reserved seat. No real need to change to my other reserved seat at Bristol but at this stage we are advised that the train will terminate at Exeter instead of going through to Paignton. It is the trolley man who tells it is due to staff shortages.
The tannoy says change at Taunton but I see no benefit so carry on the Exeter and transfer to a local stopper. A man who was on the Crosscountry and changed at Taunton also gets on this train!
Arrive just over ½ an hour late to justify a DelayRepay claim.
A week away for Angela and me, travelling by train and bus to the Lakes and onward to the Peak district. Our two bases were Kendal and Chesterfield.
DAY 1
In order to cut travelling costs I split the journey from Paignton to Kendal in to 4 trips. Paignton (after a good breakfast in Jades) to Bristol was by the newish high speed sets with plenty of room.
An hours break a Bristol gave us time to walk down to ‘The Sidings’ (previously had many other names including ‘The Reckless Engineer’). An acceptable pint of Bath Gem (4.1%).
Stage two was on a more crowded train from Bristol to Birmingham – a sandwich stop – then on a ‘Pendolino’ for the first time.
Our tickets were only to Lancaster but it was easier to change at Oxenholme. We were not on the trip to Kendal for long enough to have to buy a ticket! No taxis and a longish walk to Premier Inn.
After eating at the Inn we sought out the Kendal pubs in the Good Beer Guide. Our first stop was at the Olde Fleece Inn. Not over impressed – still want to know if you are eating and have to wait to be seated. I didn’t know that. There was a local ale on called Kendale (4%) – not to bad. But then they asked if we were staying as they wanted to close up – not even 10 p.m..
Much better – and remained so all week – was the Fell House Bar run by the Fell Brewery all in house products at reasonable prices. I had the Ghyll Bitter (3.7%) most of the time while AMT had ‘Thunder Before Lunchtime’ (4%)– a hazy beer.
Very friendly place.
DAY 2
Breakfast at Premier Inn – no buffet here.
Tipping with rain as we make our way to Bus Station. AMT’s bus pass has run out and not been renewed ‘as she hadn’t used it?). So negotiations on bus to allow use of out of date card.
Open Top Service to Windermere, Bowness, Ambleside and Grasmere. Fortunately the front 10 seats or so are covered not that we can see much. Recorded commentary all the way.
The rain that falls on back runs down in torrents as we go downhill but runs aawy on uphill stretches.
Grasmere very wet -well it is October in the lakes. Nice tea in converted chapel, visit Wordsworth Grave and the excellent St Oswald’s Church. Gingerbread bought -well you must, mustn’t you?
Beer today is at Tweedies Bar. A large bar with hundreds of pumpclips from previous beers from all over UK. We had the local beer as you should. Lakes Brew DDH pale (4%) for me and Cumbria Loweswater Gold (4.3%) for Angela. Both very good.
Return on the 555 through service (Kendal to Lancaster) though a bit drier. Kendal disappoints as a pub town. We wlk up to the ‘New Union’ – in the GBG and supposedly doing food. But they are not and it wasn’t a great welcome. Eat again at Premier Inn.
In the absence of anywhere else return to the excellent Fell House where I have the Glisky (4.6%).
DAY 3
As we will be using a number of busus today we buy a rover ticket for AMT to save complications.
After an in town breakfast at Bob and Berts – not bad but not cheap – we catch the 555 again this time all the way to Keswick – in the rain! We have a tea etc in Booths supermarket – a tremdous shop which huge quantities of excellect looking fresh food. Some indecision as the road around Derwentwater – my plan for today – is partly flooded.
After touring Keswick we catch the 108 – I think – taking a route via the foot of Catbells to Rosthwaite and beyond. Still raining but great views over Derwentwater though you can’t see much of the mountains!
At Rosthwaite search for an invisible farmshop and so as we have nearly 2 hours to kill head for the Scafell Hotel Riverside Bar where I have been many times before. Unfortunatley no lunchtime food at this time of year but the liquid offerings of local beersTirril Old Faithful (4.0%) and Corby Blonde (also 4%) merited 2 rounds to wash down the crisps!
Lovely to sit in the bar and watch the river Derwent rush past the window (nice outside area in the summer).
On the way back we stopped in Windermere to try and find somewhere to eat. After an abortive search we went into the Elleray Arms where I’ve been before. We were short of time before the bus but they were very helpful and produced two good starters in quick time. Think the beer was Black Sheep but can’t remember and didnt write it down!
In the evening I went on a lone search of other Kendal GBG pubs to no avail. The one I found had closed early (another one)! So a few more in the Fell House.
DAY 4
Today’s plan was bus to Coniston if for no ther reason than to drink some Coniston Bluebird, named after Donald Campbell’s boat. Breakfast in Bob and Berts again and then the open-top in much better weather. Stop off at Bowness by the lake for a while then onwards to Ambleside.
The bus ride to Coniston is an experience not to be missed . Most of the route is on not much better than single track road and even in the quieter autumn there is much traffic – most of which copes with passing a bus!
Coniston village is unfortunately well away from the lake as we found when buying a map from the Information Centre. (it was a donation but you would dare not make one! Run by volunteers I think. Bought a hat!
Coniston is full of pubs – I remember the Sun Inn – but we went into the ‘Black Bull Hotel’ home of the Coniston Brewery. I had the Bluebird – as good as I remember – Angela the XB version – also good. (Both 3.6%).
Eat a snack while waiting for return bus – which was even more eventful! Stuck in a queue for at least 15 minutes waiting for people who could not or would not reverse. (Bit like home really!)
In Ambleside I recalled a cafe in a back lane called ‘Sheila’s Cottage’. Still there and still good. A cream tea of scone, jam, cream (Cornish unfortunately), Borrowdale Tea Bread and Lancashire Cheese. Lovely.
Snack from Booths in Windermere for tea -and just visit the Fell House again for more good beer.
DAY 5
From the Lakes to the Peaks. Two very cheap tickets by going from Kendal to Manchester Piccadilly and then onward to Chesterfield. Confusion when taxi takes us to Oxenholme by mistake but only charged for the shorter journey.
This was not a national rail strike day and the trip to Manchester was fine. However, East Midlands Trains had been hit by a strike and our train was cancelled. Helpful Newtork Rail employee guides us in direction of Northen Rail via Hope Valley to Sheffield which we catch after snack on station.
Heaving -as it has passengers for 2 trains on it and dozens are standing. Fortunately I was quick enough to get seats. I also think it was here I picked up Covid! Off at Sheffield where an stupid woman tries to get on before we were all off. She got some abuse -not only from me!
When on Sheffield Station – where do you go? To the Sheffield Tap of course! Thornbridge Jaipur (of course) and Astryd (3.8%). The place never disappoints!
This evening is at Premier Inn to which we travel by X17 bus.
Stay in town – visiting the Pig and Pump (formerly White Swan etc). I have Ossett White Rat (4%) while AMT has more Jaipur.
Then a taxi to Chesterfield Arms and Neptune Beer Emporium. In the former it is the in house brewery Resting Devil – Twisted Pale (4.2%) and Changeling (4.5%). In the Neppy Jaipur and Ashover Poets Tipple (4%).
DAY 6
To Castleton after breakfast in the excellent cafe opposite the Premier Inn.
Bus to Bakwell – get day pass for AMT from helpful information centre – and after tea/coffee catch the Castleton Bus. Usual lovely ride through the Dales -easpecially Cressbrookdale.
Disappointment at the Nag’s Head in that the lovely platter we had before was not on the menu. Settled with Whitebait and a good ploughman’s but not quite the same.
However the beer was very good – Distant HillsBrewery glossop Hoodwinked (4.0%) and Superfortress (4.4%).
After timetable confusion catch a late running bus to Sheffield and an X17 to Chesterfield.
An evening trip down to Whittington moor where we share some sausage and chips outside the closed Derby Tup. Round the corner to the Beer Parlour. AMT had Abbeydale Deception (4%) and I had Ashover White Lion (4.6%).
(I think all these beer allocations in Chesterfield are right but the back of a beer mat I wrote them on wasn’t clear!!)
Then to to Glassworks – Brampton Brewery pub for Ascalon (3.8%) and Tudor Rose (4.6%).
Finish in the Chesterfield Arms
Day 7 and LAST (not counting the journey home!)
Best weather of the holiday. To Baslow and on the Chatsworth House by the bus (which also calls via Holymoorside). We find today that in Derbyshire they give 14 days grace when a bus pass has expired. That could have saved us a few bob!
Bravely we decide to walk fro the house back to Baslow – just short of two mile. Quite a lot of stopping and starting but we made it.
Lunch is in the Cafe on the Green – formerly the Goose Green Cafe. Very good sandwiches and cups of tea.
Collect a lot of conkers (or cobjoes as i called them as a child) and then bus back to town.
We also get a bit of food for tea.
Evening just walk up to the Neptune and Chesterfield Arms -AMT getting a spring roll en route. Only new beer this evening was Daleside Bitter (3.7%) in the Neptune.
Despite the minor hitches – a good week and some great beer!
Yes it is. I wrote this during one of the lockdowns – a Devon Alphabet. Places I know in this fantastic county!
A is for Ashburton
One of the gateways to Dartmoor. A typical Devon town with its history based on farming as well as having been a Stannary town dealing with tin mined on the moors.
Was the terminus of the branch line from Totnes and although the station still exists, the line was closed in the 1960’s and cut when the A38 was widened. You can still travel on the preserved South Devon Railway as far as Buckfastleigh.
The town has a wide variety of businesses and pubs. The Exeter Inn is by far the oldest. The old Golden Lion Inn was the headquarters of the ‘Monster Raving Loony Party’.
The town is likely to increase in its fame as it is the setting for a series of detective novels by local author Stephanie Austin – starting with ‘Dead in Devon’
B is for Barnstaple
In the far north of the county and another railway terminus. The Tarka Line from Exeter now terminates here though previous the line went on to Bideford and also a line came in from Taunton.
The rail trip is very pleasant and I have done it a number of times. Most recently this has been to visit the Lynton and Barnstaple Railway – or the part that has been restored at Woody Bay. There are ambitions to complete the whole railway of 19 miles though at present they have a mile and are working on the next section of around 9 miles. The target for this extension is 2026.
Barnstaple itself is thriving market town at the lowest crossing point of the river Taw. It has an historic Pannier Market and Butchers Row – 10 stone built shops.
I have also worked in the town and neighbouring Bideford and Bantham on various projects.
C is for Chagford (and Castle Drogo)
A place I have visited a few times including a meal in the ‘Three Crowns’ and a beer in other hostelries. A proper market town again in close proximity to Dartmoor which supplied its trade in wool and tin. One of its many interesting buildings is the thatched Lloyds Bank – which seems to have survived total closure and operates 3 days a week!
Nearby and definitely worth visiting is Castle Drogo. Now owned by the National Trust it was designed by Edwin Lutyens for the founder of Home and Colonial Stores – Julius Drewe. Built of granite over 19 years in the early 20th Century it was the last castle to be built in England. The views from the grounds are outstanding.
Another place close by is Easton Court where Evelyn Waugh wrote ‘Brideshead Revisited’.
D is for Dartington Hall
Dartington Hall was developed by the Elmhirsts in the early 20th century. They were a wealthy couple and they restored the buildings and developed all forms of education on the site. It is now run by a Trust.
The main building of importance is the Great Hall but there is also the Barn Theatre and High Cross House. Much of the Estate is Grade I listed and the impressive gardens are Grade II. There are numerous excellent walks especially down by the Dart where the view across the river is of the South Devon Railway.
I have worked occasionally at Dartington in some business capacity but my main experience was as a member of the Playgoers Society which put on an annual Shakespeare in the Private Gardens and plays in the Barn Theatre.
In the garden I have been involved in A Midsummer Nights Dream (twice), Julius Caesar, Comedy of Errors, Henry V, and Macbeth. A great spectacle -often affected by the weather. I have also stage managed The Dresser in the theatre.
E is for Exeter Canal
The Exeter (Ship) Canal runs for 5 miles from the basin where it joins the River Exe to its ending at Turf Lock. It was initially built in the 16thcentury and was used for transport of goods to and from the city until about 1972.
At the canal basin, there are shops and pubs including the nearby Prospect Inn and also a hand pulled ‘Butts Ferry’ which has also been around for over 300 years.
Like all canals it is a pleasant walk and after passing industrial estates comes in to open country, passing under the Ring road and also the M5. The ring road bridge is a bascule bridge and does not open very often. A pleasure boat runs from there to the end and out into the Exe Estuary.
The walk takes you past two excellent pubs. The Double Locks has long been a favourite and usually has a wide range of real ales.
The Turf Hotel at the end used to have restricted opening but nowadays is open regularly. The downside is that you can only walk, cycle or boat your way there – no driving access!
You can continue to walk down the estuary to Cockwood but the last miles are nearly all on road.
F is for Fox Tor and Fur Tor
Two well known Dartmoor Tors – one on the south moor and the other on the north.
Fox Tor is not a large tor. It is south of Princetown and is accessible by walking from the road to Whiteworks. A little to the north is Childe’s Tomb – marked with a cross – which is supposedly the resting place of a hunter who died there while sheltering from a blizzard. He died despite disembowelling his horse and sheltering in the hide. There is believed to be a kistvaen underneath. The present cross is a replacement as the original stone structure was destroyed and used to build the short-lived Fox Tor Farm. (Pictures 1& 2)
A little to the northeast is Foxtor Mires – rumoured to be the inspiration for the Grimpen Mire in ‘Hound of the Baskervilles’.
By contrast, Fur Tor (or Vur Tor as it has been known) is a very large tor on the North Moor. Often known as ‘ The Queen of Tors’ . From the west the route is from Willsworthy along the Amicombe Brook. For a long time it was one of only two Dartmoor Letterboxes which were marked on OS Maps
The remaining box shown on the map is to the NNE of Fur Tor at Cranmere Pool. This is the site of the very first letterbox sited in 1854 by James Perrott – a Dartmoor Guide. The present ‘box’ is a permanent structure.
G is for Galmpton and Greenway
Closer to home now. Galmpton is the next village to Kingswear along the Dart. Home to a good primary school and to the Manor Inn where I played in their quiz team many years ago. Galmpton Creek is the site of a boat yard where the Western Lady fleet of boats was moored and maintained (and may still be!). There is also a marina and boat repair yard.
Greenway is on the Dart opposite Dittisham where a ferry service runs across to the landing spot near the Ferry Boat Inn. In normal times they run most of the time and also have a service to and from Dartmouth and Greenway House.
Greenway House is a Georgian property now in the hands of the National Trust but for many years it was the holiday home of Agatha Christie. She purchased it before WWII and during the conflict it was requisitioned for use by the US Coastguard. One of the members painted a frieze on the Library wall.
Greenway is the setting for one of her books – ‘Dead Man’s Folly’.
H is for Honiton
We first came to Devon on holiday when I was about 6 I suppose. One of the nightmares of the journey was the traffic jam through Honiton which was relieved in 1966 by opening the by-pass. The original road is part of the Roman Fosse Way from Exeter to Lincoln. The by-pass is now part of the improved – but not complete – A30.
Honiton over the years has been famous for its lace – much of which is on display in its Allhallows museum.
My last visit was a few years ago when Angela and I went by train. The station is one of the passing places on the partly singled South West Railway line to London via Salisbury. We had an interesting walk around the town and a pleasant afternoon tea in a cafe behind a pub. It was unfortunately the wrong time of day to be drinking but there appear to be a number of good hostelries! On our return journey the display on the platform advised us that the train was full and standing only. Turned out to be nonsense!
I is for Ipplepen and surroundings
I have not been to Ipplepen for some time. We were regular visitors to the Plough Inn for darts matches but that is now closed. The remaining pub is the Wellington. Not too far away on the main road is the Two Mile Oak which has always sold good selections of real ale.
Ipplepen is sort of in the middle of the triangle of Torbay, Newton Abbot and Totnes. The village seems to stretch out to Fermoys Garden Centre (Home of the annual Abbfest Beer Festival), and Dainton Golf Club. There have been a number of archeological digs in the area with discoveries of Roman and other remains. In 2015 a Roman Cemetary was found containing 15 skeletons.
A few miles away is the small hamlet of Torbryan. We used to be regular visitors to the Church House Inn to eat. It is – not surprsingly – opposite the rather fine church. This was in the news a few years ago when thieves stole 2 mediaeval panels but fortunately they were recovered a few years later.
Apparently – though I have not been – there is a set of caves nearby where animals remains such as mammoth, hyena and cave bear have been found.
J is for Jay’s Grave
Situated at a crossroads not far from Hound Tor on Dartmoor is what appears to be a grave with stones and usually fresh flowers. Known as (Kitty) Jay’s Grave it is associated with a number of legends.
It is supposedly the grave of a young girl – a maid from a nearby farm – who committed suicide in the 18th Century when finding herself pregnant by a farmhand or a member of the family. No cemetery would allow a suicide to be buried in consecrated ground and the custom was to bury the person at a crossroads.
The grave was apparently opened by the landowner in 1851 when a skeleton of a woman was found. It was then reburied in the same spot – now no longer a crossroads. There are always fresh flowers on the grave and it is not supposedly known who places them there. Needless to say there are also tales of ghosts seen in the area and some Dartmoor folk would not pass the grave at night.
The grave has been an inspiration for books and music. Beatrice Chase wrote ‘Heart of the Moor’ in 1914 and John Galsworthy ‘The Apple Tree’. Some believe that Beatrice was responsible for the flowers during her lifetime. The rock band Wishbone Ash wrote ‘Lady Jay’ and local folk singer Seth Lakeman produced a ‘Kitty Jay’ album.
Not far away is the large stone outcrop known as Bowerman’s Nose. It is a 21ft high granite outcrop -the remains of an eroded tor.
Again it has a legend attached. John Bowerman was a huntsman who disturbed a coven of witches. As a punshment he was turned into stone – as were his dogs which are now the top of Hound Tor. If you believe that……
Again not far away is the appropriately named mobile food van – The Hound of the Basket Meals!
K is for Kingswear
I cannot do an alphabet without referring to the village where I have lived – in different parts – for more than 50 years.
I already mentioned the station and centre in my Railway Alphabet. I have for the past 30+ years lived at Kingston which is a hamlet of 6 properties which at one stage was a farm and its associated cottages. One of our neighbours wrote a history of the farm and the cottages on behalf of Kingswear Historians. The farmhouse was built around 1750 and our cottage – the last to be built with its neighbour – was completed in 1905.
We are surrounded by farmland now mostly part of Boohay Farm, Fountain Violet and Woodhuish. The National Trust owns Coleton Farmhouse as part of the Colten Fishacre Estate.
Coleton Fishacre was built for the D’oyly Carte family in the early 1920’s designed by a pupil of Edwin Lutyens. (Picture 1) When open both the house and the gardens are worth a visit. Unfortunately the road which passes our house is narrow and does not work well with hordes of visitors meeting farm traffic. Amazing how few people know how to reverse!
Between Coleton Fishacre and Kingswear – near the Coast Path – is the Daymark. This 180 ft high octagonal tower was built in 1864 as a beacon for navigation. (Picture 2). I believe there is also the remains of a barrow or similar close by.
L is for Littaford Tor. Longaford Tor and the Lych Way.
These two tors are close together north of the B3212 from Moretonhampstead to Princetown. It was one of our earliest expeditions doing Dartmoor Letterboxing though I recall we went the wrong way and got a bit ‘bogged down’!
Between the two tors – Longaford being the larger – runs the Lych Way. This is an acient track used to carry the dead from the Bellever area across the moor to the town of Lydford. This was the parish that covered that area of the moor but later Widecombe Church was built and the dead had a much shorter journey. It is also known as the ‘Corpse Way’ and ‘Way of the Dead’. It was still used until the 1800’s to travel to the Stannary Courts at Lydford. As with Jay’s Grave it is the subject of stories and songs.
Also nearby are the Powder Mills – once used for the manufacture of gunpowder for use in the local quarries.
Also between the tors is the ancient Wistman’s Wood. Probably part of the old Forest of Dartmoor it consists mainly of oaks, growing in amongst boulders. Because of the soil and the local conditions they are stunted and twisted and can be an eerie place!
One other story can be heard about the locality. On the B3212 there have been many reports in the 20th Century of the steering wheel of a car or handlebars of a motorcycle being grabbed by 2 ‘hairy hands’ (or sometimes invisible hands). The vehicle has then been forced off the road unless the driver is able to overcome the power of the hands!
M is for Morwellham Quay
Morwellham Quay is now a tourist attraction a few miles from Tavistock.
It is on the bank of the River Tamar and was built in the 18th and 19th century to serve mining in the locality. The site goes back further in time when monks used it to ferry goods to Plymouth. The mine was operated by Devon Great Consols and mainly produced copper, tin, lead and silver.
Many of the buildings have been restored – including a pub which wasn’t there when I visited many years ago. The assayers’ offices have been carefully preserved and Victorian cottages, farm and schoolrooms presented. The ore-crushing plants driven by a 32-foot overhead waterwheelcan be seen. A battery electric-powered tramway, constructed as part of the tourist attraction in the 1970s, takes visitors for tours on a single level of the George and Charlotte copper mine.
A restored dock includes a restored sailing ship – The Garlandstone.
The Quay is an important part of the Tamar Valley Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. Another attraction close by is Cotehele House – run by the National Trust.
The Tamar Valley railway line runs from Plymouth to Gunnislake and is a very scenic route.
N is for Newton Abbot
Newton Abbot has to be in my Devon Alphabet as I worked there for many years – mostly in Devon Square.
The market town dates back 750 years – there were two being Newton Abbot and Newton Bushel which merged in the 17th Century. There is still a weekly livestock auction and a turkey auction in December of each year.
St Leonards Tower as seen in the first picture was part of a larger structure being a medieval chapel dating back to 1220. King William III stayed overnight in Newton Abbot after his landing in Brixham in 1688.
Wool has been a main industry in Newton Abbot and until recently was was large maltings producing malt for the brewing industry. Although that has ceased to operate Teignworthy Brewery still brews on the premises.
Otherwise for many years the largest employer was the railway depot. Situated close to Newton Abbot Station. The yard was developed after the Great Western Railway acquired them in 1976. Up to the middle of the 20th century it employed up to 1000 and changed from a steam depot to diesel. Now little remains and the yard is now covered by the Brunel Industrial Estate which does have some manufacturing industry.
Newton Abbot is also home to England’s most westerly racecourse.
O is for Okehampton
Okehampton is the major town of North Dartmoor. I’ve been there many times either stopping or passing through. A number of meetings/conferences were held in the White Hart Hotel which is now a Wetherspoons and I used to help audit the accounts of a food manufacturing business in the industrial estate. Nowadays it is by-passed to the south and traffic is much lighter.
To the south the is the Castle and also the best access to the moor via Okehampton camp. The castle dates back to Norman times and as been the subject of a painting by J M W Turner. The camp was established for military training in the 19th century and today is the base for training on the firing ranges in many parts of Dartmoor. Red flags are flown to warn walkers to avoid the area when firing is taking place.
The camp is also the starting point for the annual Ten Tors Expedition for young people of all ages and abilities and it is supervised by the Army. It began in 1960.
Okehampton still has a railway station but it is not at this time part of the national network – but will be soon – see below. Until 2011 trains ran from Meldon Quarry – west of the town – carrying ballast stone. It has been operated by Dartmoor Railway but this company went into administration in 2020.
We have travelled on the railway from Exeter during the period when under the auspices of Devon County Council Sunday only services ran from Exeter St Davids. In 2021 the railway will re-open on a permanent basis with service run by Great Western Railway.
P is for Princetown
Princetown is the main settlement actually on the moor and is overshadowed by Dartmoor Prison.
Started by Sir Thomas Tyrwhitt at the end of the 18th century the settlement was named after the Prince of Wales. One the two pubs is named Prince of Wales and the other the Plume of Feathers reflecting the prince’s symbol. There is also a brewery!
The prison was built in 1806 for prisoners from the Napoleonic Wars, closed in 1851 then re-opened in 1851. Its days are now numbered. At one time it held up to 9000 prisoners but now only 640.
In 1823 a railway was formed for transport of granite but the railway from Yelverton which was part of the Great Western Railway did not open until 1883. It closed in 1956. The trackbed which winds it way almost in a circle around King Tor is now a walking route which is of course very level. It also passes Leeden and Ingra Tors. North Hessary Tor with its television mast is to the north of the village with the equivalent South Hessary Tor to the south. The Devonport Leat which carries Dartmoor water to Burrator Reservoir and onto Plymouth passes close to the village.
There is a National Park Centre in the middle of the village. The Plume of Feathers marks about the halfway point on the Abbots Way between Buckfast Abbey and Tavistock.
Q is for Quarries
Dartmoor has a number of quarries -mostly for granite.
The best known is probably Haytor as it on the tourist route. The quarries are in the shadow of the tor and have been used since the 18th century. In 1820 a granite tramway – the remains of which can be seen to day – was built to carry the granite down to Stover Canal. The stone was in demand for London Buildings such as London Bridge (the one which is now in the USA) but by the mid 19th century Cornish granite was cheaper.
Some of the quarries have filled up with water – Haytor Pools. The area is now a Site of Special Scientific Interest..
Merrivale Quarry (also known as Tor quarry) operated from 1876 and was the last of the Dartmoor quarries to close in 1997. Again used for London buildings including the facade of New Scotland Yard and I think most lay claim to doing something for London Bridge!! The granite from Merrivale was also used to pave Trafalgar Square and also the Falkland Memorial. Because its closure is so recent there are still rusting remains of machinery around the quarry site.
Near Princetown and the railway are a group of quarries. King Tor, Swell Tor and Foggintor Quarries. All that remains now is the spoil heaps and also some granite blocks (corbels) which had been cut and carved – possibly to repair London Bridge when it went to the USA. Foggintor also produced the granite for Nelson’s Column.
By the 1840’s 300 people worked at Foggintor and around 100 lived in quarrymen’s cottages on site. Little remains now and the area is now used for filming, adventuring, training camps etc.
R is for Royal Devon
Many places in Devon have royal connections of one kind ot another. Here are three.
Britannia Royal Naval College (BRNC) Dartmouth was established in 1863 when the hulk of HMS Britannia was moored in the River Dart, followed a year later by HMS Hindostan. These supplied the accommodation for training officers until 1905 when the present buildings were opened on the hill overlooking the river.
Kings George V and VI both attended the college as did The Duke of Edinburgh (where he first me the Queen) Prince Charles and the Duke of York. Prince William was also there briefly during his military training.
The college is now the only place in England training naval officers. It is properly known as HMS Britannia.
With not such direct Royal connections, the Royal Clarence Hotel on Cathedral Green at Exeter was the premier hotel in the city. Originally built in the mid 18th century it was updated in 1827 and gets its name from a visit by Adelaide Duchess of Clarence in the same year.
It was almost complete destroyed, with the adjoining Well House Tavern, in 2015 by a huge fire. The restoration is beginning with the restoration of the original grand façade with a modern hotel behind.
The Royal family makes regular formal visits to Devon. Annually a member of the family attends passing out parades at BRNC. For a while the South Devon Railway north of Totnes was a stabling point for the Royal Train.
In 1988 the landing of William of Orange at Brixham 300 years previously was commemorated by a visit from the Queen, the Duke and the Prince of the Netherlands. A re-enactment took place (in which I had a minor role) and a new commemorative plaque unveiled.
S is for Slapton
Slapton village is almost exactly halfway between Dartmouth and Kingsbridge. The village itself is a little way inland from the beach and boast two good pubs – Tower Inn and Queens Arms. The Tower named after the adjoining structure originally part of a chantry.
The two main interests around the village are Slapton Ley with its wildlife and Slapton Beach with its historical connections.
The Ley is a freshwater lake created by the shingle ridge which divides from the sea. The A379 which crosses the ridge has been damaged many times by storms. The Ley is a Site of Special Scientific Interest and a National Nature Reserve. Amongst its rare wildlife are birds (Cetti’s Warbler , cirl bunting), plants (strapwort) and mammals (otter, dormice). There have also been recorded 14 different species of bat.
The beach was used – along with many inland areas – for training for the D-Day Landings of 1944. It was chosen for its similarity to some of the Normandy Beaches particularly Utah Beach. At the end of 1943 orders were issued to evacuate 8 villages and all outlying farms – from Strete to Chillington and inland to Blackawton. Churches were emptied of valuables as there was no guarantee of no damage.
The main rehearsal was Exercise Tiger during April and May 1944. The main incident was an attack by E-boats on a convoy of landing craft of the US1st Engineer Special Brigade and over 700 were killed. At the time – for obvious security reasons – the scale of the disaster was never publicised.
Ken Small – a local resident – took on himself proving a memorial. He obtained permission to recover an M4 Sherman Tank from the seabed and this is now displayed at Torcross on the Western end of the beach.
T is for Totnes
I am a very regular visitor to Totnes – mostly as a volunteer on the station of the south Devon Railway.
The town itself goes back to the 10th century and the castle was built during the reign of William I. Legend has it the Brutus – the founder of Britain – stepped ashore at Totnes and this is recorded on a stone in the High Street. A charter was granted by King John in 1206.
The Dart is tidal as far as a weir to the north of the town and for many years the Baltic Wharf received ships loaded with timber from Scandinavia until 1995. Today Totnes is regarded as having an ‘alternative’ culture being a ‘Transition Town’ and at one time having the Totnes Pound as its own currency which could only be used in businesses in the town.
The Great Western Railway came to Totnes with the opening of the station in 1847. It still has regular express services to London, the north and West to Penzance. There was a short branch line which led down to Totnes Quay, crossing the road near the bridge over the Dart.
The other branch was to Buckfastleigh and Ashburton via Staverton which opened as a broad gauge line in 1872. It was used for passenger traffic and the conveyance of goods including wool. BR closed the branch to passengers in 1958 (before Beeching!) and to goods in 1962. It was re-opened as a heritage line – by Dr Beeching – in 1969 but the section from Buckfastleigh to Ashburton was lost during the widening of the A38.
The line still runs being owned and operated by the South Devon Railway Trust.
U is for Uffculme, Ugborough, Umberleigh and Uplyme.
Not many places in Devon with a U which I know well so I have selected four in very different parts of the county..
Uffculme is in mid Devon and is on the River Culm and close to the main town of Cullompton. Its main claim to fame now is the restored Coldharbour Mill.
The mill is a working wool museum based on the business that was operated there from the late 18th century. The mill was in constant operation until 1978. It is unusual that it is powered by both a water wheel and a steam engine. The water power was used for the night shift – the steam engine driven by a Lancashire boiler which still works today. One of the products still made is a Devon Tartan.
Uffculme was also the site of a fireworks factory which was almost destroyed in an explosion in 1988.
Ugborough is in the South Hams. I have visited it on occasions and passed by many times on the road towards Kingsbridge from Totnes. It is also close to the A38 Expressway and the new Ivybridge railway station. There are two pubs – surprisingly for an inland village the are the Ship and the Anchor.
Umberleigh I only really know from passing through on Tarka Line trains from Exeter to Barnstaple.
It is in north Devon just two stops away from Barnstaple and is on the banks of the River Taw. Pre the Norman conquest it was held as a barony by King Athelstan but William II granted it to the Baron of Gloucester. Later the Soliegny, Champernowne (later of Dartington Hall) and Willington families were holders.
Nearby is the Grade I listed Umberleigh House and the local pub is the Rising Sun.
Uplyme is in East Devon very close to the seaside resort of Lyme Regis which is across the border in Dorset. Lyme Regis with its fossils is probably better known. There were three pubs but only the Talbot remains.
V is for Valley of the Rocks, Lynton and Lynmouth
The Valley of the Rocks is a dry valley west of Lynton which is known for its feral goats. I did walk there many years ago.
It is also full of literary connections. In particular Samuel Taylor Coleridge and William Wordsworth are known to have walked there together. They decided to write a prose tale based on the area but it was never finished. Robert Southey was also a visitor and R D Blackmore based part of Lorna Doone in the Valley.
Lynton and Lynmouth are twin villages joined by the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway. This was built by the publisher George Newnes in the late 19th Century partly because of the influx of visitors to Lynmouth arriving by sea and needing to get up to Lynton. The difference in height is over 500m. The railway is operated by water drawn from the River Lyn and emptied into tanks on each car so that they counterbalance. The buildings have Grade II listed status. There is an excellent café at the top.
Lynmouth was the scene of a natural disaster in 1952 when the West Lyn River, blocked by fallen trees and debris was hit by a large rainstorm and burst its banks. 100 buildings were destroyed and 34 people died. The village was rebuilt.
I have already referred to the Lynton and Barnstaple Railway which had a terminus on the outskirts of Lynton.
W is for Woodbury and its Common
I have not covered much in East Devon and have only been to Woodbury a couple of times. The Avocet line from Exeter to Exmouth calls at Exton by request and this is the nearest station.
One visit was for a wedding for which we were late due to traffic around Exeter so instead of going into the church late we had a quick beer in the White Hart next to the church. All good village pubs are close to the church!
Woodbury Common is an area of heathland close to the village and is in the East Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and is a Site of Special Scientific Interest. It contains an Iron Age Fort, and is home to many uncommon species such as the nightjar which migrates from Africa annually.
It was the site of a battle in 1549 between rebels from Devon and Cornwall and the Kings Troops. This was during the Prayer Book rebellion protesting against the reformation prayer book. Now is is a training ground for Royal Marines from nearby Lympstone Barracks.
Woodbury Manor Golf Club was owned by retired racing driver Nigel Mansell but he sold in 2007 for £18 million.
X is for Crosses!
There are crosses of all types and sizes dotted around the moor. Some are ancient and mark paths, others newer. I am indebted to an excellent website – http://www.dartmoor-crosses.org.uk for information and pictures though I have visited the three I have chosen. The site does include some crosses in churchyards and at the end of January 2021 listed 199! I’m sure they’ll find another!
One of the main tracks which I have completed twice is the Abbots Way between Buckfast Abbey and Tavistock -about 25 miles.
Horns Cross
According to the web-site, Horns Cross is on not quite the route I followed. I it is amore northerly and slightly different Monks Path. It crosses the path from south Brent to Hexworthy. The cross is not far from Venford Reservoir on Holne Moor. It is reckoned to be c 14thCentury, over 6ft tall, and has at some stage been repaired with an iron rod.
Petre’s Cross
Located close to the summit of Western Whittaburrow, Petre’s is one of four crosses, erected in the 16th Century, by Sir William Petre to mark the boundary of the Manor of Brent. Of the other three one no longer exists. The cross was damaged by miners from Red Lake using stone to build a shelter. The site is not far from Crossways where the Abbot’s Way crosses the Two Moors Way. It is just under 4ft tall.
Siward’s Cross or Nun’s Cross.
One of the largest crosses on the moor, Siward’s Cross is nearly 7ft tall. It stands near the crossing of the Abbot’s Way and the Monks’ Path and bears the inscription BOC LOND which may refer to Buckland. Siward whose name appears on the cross was an Earl with lands locally though he does appear as Earl of Northumberland in Shakespeare’s Macbeth. There does not appear to be any connection with Nuns or a nunnery to give its alternative name. The nearby derelict farm is Nuns Cross Farm. It is also close to the Devonport Leat which carries water from the North moor to Burrator Reservoir.
Y is for the ‘Tor where the Sun shines backwards’!!
This is part of a Dartmoor Letterbox clue for Yar Tor – between Poundsgate and Dartmeet.
We were introduced to Letterboxing after son James went on a short residential break at Broadleas near Haytor when he was at Kingswear Primary School. That was his first experience of the hobby. The family did a lot of ‘boxing’ over the years sometimes a 10-12 mile walk in a day and have acquired over 2000 stamps.
For his 10th birthday we put out his own letterbox without his knowledge. The clue is ‘Ray’ backwards giving you Yar and then more details of the actual site in the rest of the clue. He was absolutely delighted when he found it!.
Yar Tor itself overlooks the East Dart and has tremendous views incluidng Corndon Tor with its stone row to the East and Sharp Tor to the south.
A few miles to the north East is Yarner Wood Nature Reserve purcheased in 1952 as one of Englands first Natiional nature Reserves. It is an oak wood in the Bovey Valley with plenty of walks, much wildlife and an old mine. Look out for pied flycatchers, woodpeckers and wood warblers in the woods, Dartford warblers, ponies and fritillary butterflies around the moorland, and dippers along the River Bovey.
Z is for Zeal
A few ‘Zeals’ around Devon.
Zeal Monachorum is a village almost in the centre of the county, between North Tawton and Copplestone. The word Zeal is believed to come from the word for ‘cell’ and Monachorum is ‘of the monks’. The village has a population of around 400 and is situated on the River Yeo.
The village appears in the Domesday Book and the parish church of St Peter is 13th Century. The yew tree in the churchyard apparently predates the church and is estimated to be 1000 years old. Nearby is Reeve Castle and the nearest pub is called the Waie Inn. From pictures it appears to be very modern.
South Zeal village is in the Dartmoor National Park this time near South Tawton and south of the A30. Originally the road to Okehampton passed through the village.
I have been to South Zeal – but a long time ago – and had a beer in one of the pubs. There is the Kings Arms and the Oxenham Arms but I can’t remember which! An unusual feature of the latter is the menhir or standing stone around which part of the pub is built. It is in the picture and as can be seen reaches the ceiling. There is a later pillar in another room propping up the ceiling!
In nearby Sticklepath village is Finch Foundry which is now a museum owned by the National Trust. Still shown operating by water power from giant wheels it used to make farm implements and the like.
The nearest tor is probably Cosdon Hill but Belstone is not too far away.
Zeal Tor Tramroad.
I have already mentioned this in my ‘Railway alphabet’. It is long disused but can be followed for much of the way. It was built around 1847 to carry peat from Red Lake to the naphtha works at Shipley Bridge. 4 miles long it was constructed with granite sets, with wooden rails. It did not last very long but was later used in the 1870’s for moving china clay.
Remnants of the line including sets and markers can be seen and some of the ruined buildings remain at Shipley Bridge. A good walking route.
So this shows that Devon has ,much to offer and is well worth a visit at any time of the year.
It was Halloween and the train was getting ready to leave the northern station. “Do you believe in ghosts?”, the fireman asked the driver. “Not really” came the reply “why ask?”. “ I suppose just seeing all these passengers dressed up and the station decorated made me think”. The conversation ended as the whistle went and they set off into the cold clear night.
It was about halfway down the line that a thin mist crept over the field from the river, while the sky remained starlit. Suddenly the fireman – looking ahead on the right – shouted. “Look – there someone waving by the edge of the track – he’s signalling for us to slow down”. The driver instinctively applied the brakes and the train came almost to a standstill. A few passengers looked out in surprise, but most were too deep in conversation to notice anything unusual. “I can’t see anyone.” Said the driver as he looked out. “Neither can I now -but there was definitely someone there!”. “Must be your imagination -thinking too much of Halloween!” The fireman pondered for a moment. “You may be right – lets get on”. A few minutes later, the train pulled into the other station to the spookily decorated platform.
While the passengers thronged the platform, the guard went up to the loco. “Why the sudden slow down?” “The fireman here imagined he’d seen someone by the line -I didn’t -did you? “No – I looked out as you slowed down – I saw nothing but I have to say a cold shiver went down my spine as we moved off again!”. “We’ll keep an eye on the way back- in case he has any more hallucinations” . With that the fireman went to uncouple the engine for the run round and the guard moved the lamp.
A good while later, the passengers were back on the train which pulled out, once again leaving a bright station and passing into the blackness. As the train rounded the bend towards the same place, driver, fireman and guard all looked out. “There he is!” cried the fireman. “near the milepost”. This time there was no doubt in the driver’s mind. A grey figure stood by the left of the track, his arm frantically giving the signal to slow down. The driver responded, and came to a stop with a matter of yards. The fireman looked out – but no one was to be seen. Then the guard, in his hi-vis jacket, climbed down and walked up the train to the engine. “Did you see him?” exclaimed the fireman. “I though I saw someone -but there’s no-one here now. “Well it’s not children.” said the fireman. “No”, the driver intervened, “ I clearly saw an old man – looked to me as if we was in a railway uniform – but not a modern one”. The guard shivered. “There’s that cold shiver again -I’m going back to my compartment -I suggest we get back home.“ As he walked back a few passengers asked if there was a problem. “No – just thought we saw a trespasser -be on our way in minutes”. And they were. 25 uneventful minutes later the train pulled into the station and all but one passenger left.
Old Ned walked up to the engine. “I saw him too you know. And I know who he is – or rather was.” The two crew members looked at him for a few seconds before the fireman said “Go on.” Ned hesitated, then spoke quietly. “You see it was 75 years ago this week. I was only a young lad. Ernie Basset was walking the line as he did, checking rails, keys, fishplates etc. Only that night he was late. It was dark and cold –like tonight – when just near that mile-post he noticed a broken fishplate. The joint had moved enough to derail a train at normal speed. He was just looking at it when he heard a train coming. All he could do was stand and wave and hope the crew saw him. They did. The train stopped in time to save a disaster.”
The crew looked at each other. “But why did we see him tonight?” “Dunno” said Ned, “He’s been dead nigh on thirty years. Well – goodnight gentlemen.” With that he left the platform. The crew got to their work to deal with the engine.
Next morning the track maintenance gang walked the line as they did regularly. Just where the crew had seen the ghost of Ernie Basset, the fishplate was broken.
I have always enjoyed mystery/detective stories in any medium. I suppose I started with ‘Hardy Boys’ as a child and then Sherlock Holmes and Agatha Christie. Here we have a selection of quite a few authors who work I have enjoyed over the years.
So
A is for ABC Murders
Starting with Poirot this is one of my favourites of his stories. Very clever plot and also based partly in Churston. I also enjoyed the TV version which is not always the case. Unfortunately none of the railway or Churston scenes were done locally.
B is for (The Adventure of the) Blue Carbuncle
From Poirot to Sherlock Holmes. Again a great story which was well adapted for the Brett TV series.
Set around Christmas and involving a stolen gem, and a Christmas Goose!
You will see there will be no spoilers in my narrative to the stories in case you haven’t read them!
C is for ‘ Curtain- Poirot’s Last Case‘
This was written by Agatha Christie during World War 2 allegedly because she feared for her own survival of the bombing. She wrote many Poirot and other novels afterwards and only authorised publication 30 years later just before she herself died.
It is no secret that Poirot dies at the end of the novel which is possibly set in Styles – from her first book. The plot however is very different from other stories
D is for Dead in Devon
A new author today – except she is not new to me or to many friends who know her through local theatre as a director and actress.
Stephanie Austen’s first book is a murder mystery set in and about Ashburton. Her main character – Juno Browne – works in the town, walking, dogs, helping out older people etc but gets unwittingly involved in a murder. It is a good story and the added benefit to someone like me is that you can recognise the places, the shops, the pubs etc . Nice picture of Nuns Cross Farm on Dartmoor on the cover.
I have read all three books – Dead on Dartmoor and From Devon with Death are 2 and 3.!
E is for (The) Empty House
Back to Holmes – indeed The Return of Sherlock Holmes. Conan Doyle ‘killed’ off his character in order to concentrate on other work but succumbed to public pressure to bring him back.
In ‘The Empty House’ Watson is studying the murder of Ronald Adair somehow shot in a locked room surrounded by money. He collides with a scruffy old bookdealer who then comes to his house and reveals himself as Holmes in disguise. Since Reichenbach when he escaped while his foe died he has been pursued by associates of Moriarty trying to kill him.
The empty house in the title refers to a house opposite Baker Street. Any more information would give the plot away!
F is for Foyles War
Television this time though I expect the stories are also in book form.
Created by Anthony Horovitz, the stories are set in southern England around the Second World War and immediately afterwards. The plots cover typical wartime subjects – black market, avoiding being called up, German POWS and the services.
I am a great admirer of Michael Kitchen as an actor and he is ideal in the lead role.
G is for Greek Interpreter
The Adventure of the Greek Interpreter appears in the ‘Memoirs’ and is the story in which Watson discovers that Sherlock has a brother Mycroft. Mycroft is as intelligent but totally inactive, holding some obscure position in the civil Service and living in the obscure Diogenes Club.
This story is about the title character being paid – but under duress -to translate a conversation with a Greek individual who is clearly a prisoner. It transpires that a previous interpreter had died. A woman is involved and they are trying to get the imprisoned man to sign certain papers.
H is for (The) Holy Thief
One of the series of Cadfael novels by Ellis Peters. Her real name was Edith Pargeter and she wrote other books under that name.
Cadfael is a Welsh monk, based at Shrewsbury Abbey who before holy orders had fought in the Crusades. To the consternation of his Abbot he regularly turns detective and always solves the mystery. I discovered the books in the library of a small guest house in Shrewsbury.
The first story is about the search in Wales for the bones of Saint Winifred to be brought back to the Abbey as a religious artefact.
This particular story follows a theft of the reliquary containing the bones, and the recovery.
The books were made into an excellent TV series starring Derek Jacobi- the only downside being that they were filmed in Hungary!
I is for Inspector Colbeck – The Railway Detective
Another relatively new author but quite prolific. Edward Marston has written a few series of Detective novels, based on Railways, Elizabethan Theatre, First World War etc.
The Railway detective- there are about 20 books so far – is working to solve crime on Britain’s new and expanding railways in the 1850’s onwards. His stories are very readable and as is common in this type of fiction the main character is at odds with his superiors. Marston’s research is very good as all the tales have realistic settings and events.
J is for ‘Jack the Ripper’
A real mystery this time. In 1888 11 women – mostly prostitutes were gruesomely murdered and mutilated. most of the murders were put down to one individual who was never identified. his name came from a letter to the press using the name ‘Jack’ but it is not known if he was the killer. eventually, only 5 of the killings could be definitely allocated to one killer.
The number of suspects exceeded 100 – popularly believed to be a Doctor or Aristocrat. The Duke of Clarence and Lewis Carroll are two of the more unlikely contenders.
The ‘Ripper’ title later came to be used for Peter Sutcliffe – the Yorkshire Ripper who committed 13 known murders.
K is for Kingsmarkham
The home beat of Ruth Rendell’s Inspector Reginald Wexford. Again about 24 books from this writer with this character though she wrote many other works including psychological thrillers. She also wrote under the pseudonym Barbara Vine.
I have read a few of the books but my memory really is of the excellent television series starring George Baker. From Doon with Death is the first Wexford Book.
L is for Labours of Hercules
More Agatha Christie. This is a collection of 12 short stories very loosely based on the Greek stories of the labours of Heracles. They start with the Nemean Lion and end with Cerberus the three-headed dog who guarded Hell.
The TV adaptation for the David Suchet series only used 5 of the labours -with small input from another 2. They were combined as one story set in a Swiss hotel.
M is for Murder, Miss Marple and Midsomer!
Though quite a few of Poirot’s cases are theft, it seems that for Miss Marple the majority are of murder and not only just one death. Murder at the Vicarage was the first full length novel including Miss Marple and the village of St Mary Mead. She had appeared in short stories later collected as the Thirteen Problems. Personally I enjoyed being involved in ‘ A Murder is Announced’ on stage.
A number of actresses have played her both on television and film and it is difficult to choose a favourite though I might plump for Joan Hickson.
Miss Marple’s clues came from her observations of normal life in a small village – though with the number of murders it was hardly an ordinary place. Perhaps though not as many murders as in Midsomer’s villages where the weekly death count investigated by the Barnaby’s can hardly have left anyone alive!
N is for Nemesis
Miss Marple again – in this case the last Marple novel Agatha wrote (1971) though published before Sleeping Murder. The novel takes us a way from St Mary Mead with the story based on an earlier meeting between Miss M and Jason Rafiel in the ‘ Caribbean Mystery’. Jason Rafiel refers to Miss Marple as his ‘Nemesis’
After his death she receives instructions via solicitors to solve an unspecified crime by setting off on a bus tour with an assemblage of people also selected by Mr Rafiel. Needless to say, Miss Marple solves what was a very old crime.
O is for Oldacre and Oranges
Two stories from Sherlock Holmes.
One of my favourites. Jonas Oldacre is the ‘Norwood Builder’ in the story of that title. Oldacre is apparently murdered by a young solicitor, Hector McFarlane, who has drawn up the builder’s will where he is more or less the sole beneficiary. He does not know he has a connection with Oldacre but the latter was many years ago engaged to his mother. She broke off the relationship and married the solicitor’s father.
The only body appears to have been burned in a fire in the garden of Oldacre’s house and the police arrest McFarlane as Inspector Lestrade has a very strong case. To say any more will reveal the ending.
The Five Orange Pips is an earlier story where a family keeps receiving an envelope marked K K K and containing five orange pips. After getting the letter the recipient dies. Holmes realises (as we would today) that K K K is the Ku Klux Klan and the pips are a warning. Despite his best efforts, the last recipient dies before Holmes can help him.
P is for (Edgar Allan) Poe
Specifically the ‘ Murders in the Rue Morgue’. Written in 1841 it is often described as the first true detective story though the later ‘Moonstone’ by Wilkie Collins makes a similar claim.
The detective in question is C. Auguste Dupin – whose methods can be seen later in Holmes and Poirot. As with Holmes the narrative forms a story told by an acquaintance – though unnamed. Two women are savagely murdered and the wrong man is arrested. Dupin solves the crime and gives an explanation at the end. Quite a traditional format now.
Q is for Queens of Crime
Four female detective story writers are classified under this heading; Agatha Christie, Margery Allingham, Ngaio Marsh and Dorothy L Sayers. Agatha has of course already been covered -and probably again. The other three each have a leading detective character in much the same way:-
Margery Allinghams’ leading man was the enigmatic Albert Campion and his oddly named ‘assistant’ Magersfontein Lugg. On TV they were played by Peter Davison and Brian Glover respectively. ‘A Crime at Black Dudley was the first book.
Ngaio Marsh’s policeman was Detective Chief Inspector Roderick Alleyn. A member of the gentry he had worked his way up from constable and was played on TV by Simon Williams and then Patrick Malahide. He first appears in ‘A Man Lay Dead’
Lastly, Dorothy L Sayers creation was Lord Peter Wimsey, completing a trio of gentlemen detectives. first appearing in ‘Whose Body?’ he has been played on TV in the seventies by Ian Carmichael. His assistant was Bunter.
The four ‘queens’ have been followed by a number of excellent female detective and crime writers of varying styles. They include Martina Cole, Val McDermid, Caroline Graham, Ellis Peters, Lynda La Plante and many more
R is for Red-headed League
In my top 3 Sherlock Holmes stories (and in Conan Doyles as well).
A pawnbroker is persuaded by his assistant to apply for a job at the Red-headed League which pays more than he earns from his shop. The job of copying out Encyclopaedia Britannica suddenly ends.
Holmes quickly realises that the whole thing is stunt to get the man out of his shop while his assistant gets up to no good – digging a tunnel underneath with robbery in mind.
The TV adaptation with Tim McInnerny and Richard Wilson was excellent.
S is for Sherlock
I.e. the 21st century version starring Benedict Cumberbatch and Martin Freeman.
The series created by Mark Gatiss and Steven Moffat takes stories from the Conan Doyle originals and brings them into this century. The titles are roughly the sae – for instance the first one became a Study in Pink rather than Scarlet. The plots have similarities but are given the twists and turns for which the writers are well known.
I have to say that I enjoyed the first few but the increasing complexity of later episodes left me a little disappointed – particularly The Hounds of Baskerville and The Reichenbach Fall
There is continuing talk of further shows but the commitment of the two stars have made it difficult.
T is for Tommy and Tuppence (Beresford)
A pair of detectives/spies who appear in 5 Agatha Christie novels. The are chronological books from their early twenties to their 70’s. Tommy is the careful one who works for the government whilst Tuppence is more carefree.
They have been made in TV dramas a number of times. The Secret Adversary was the first, in 1982 with James Warwick and Francesca Annis. The last was Partners in Crime with David Walliams and Greta Scacchi. ITV also made a version but put in Miss Marple with Tuppence, Tommy having a minor role.
U is for Unsolved Mysteries
And there a lot of them – some more probable than others!
I have already mentioned Jack the Ripper and there are many unsolved murders and disappearances. One disappearance is the Mary Celeste – the ship found abandoned in the Atlantic in 1872. One of the more plausible explanations is a mutiny or I seem to recall a Doctor Who episode with the Daleks on board?
Another ocean mystery allegedly responsible for many missing ships and planes is also in the Atlantic – the Bermuda Triangle.
Finally two creatures which may or may not exist – Bigfoot and the Loch Ness Monster!
V is for ‘Valley of Fear’
The last of the four full length novels that Conan Doyle wrote about Sherlock Holmes. I have not read for quite a long time.
Although the last novel it sits in time before the death of Moriarty at Reichenbach Falls. When Holmes hears of the murder of a John Douglas he is certain Moriarty is involved, though the police still believe him to be a model citizen.
The plot is partly based on the Molly Maguires, an Irish gang also operating in the USA and the Pinkerton agents trying to catch them. The Valley itself is near Chicago.
W is for Wycliffe
Wycliffe was a Chief Superintendent in Cornwall in an ITV series of the 1990’s. A very good programme with Jack Shepherd excellent in the lead role. A very good advert for Cornish scenery as well.
Adam Barker, son of Ronnie, played a regular character before the actor’s downfall!
X is for XWord!
Always have to be creative with X. Crosswords, especially cryptic, are mysteries in their own right.
The man behind Inspector Morse – like me a lover of crosswords and real ale – was himself a crossword addict writing books on the subject. Colin Dexter wrote 13 Morse novels which was extended to 33 television episodes.
‘Last Bus to Woodstock was the first and ‘The Remorseful Day’ the last.
Dexter went on to be involved in the sequel ‘Lewis’ and the prequel ‘Endeavour’. I have watched many of the former but not the latter.
Colin Dexter himself did a Hitchcock’ – had an uncredited cameo role in every Morse episode!
Y is for Yellow
Two stories here – one from Agatha Christie and one from Conan Doyle.
‘The Yellow Iris’ is a Poirot short story appearing in a short story collection – Problem at Pollensa Bay and other stories. It revolves around the death of a wife from cyanide poisoning which then repeats itself. Agatha rewrote the story as Sparkling Cyanide with Colonel Race as the investigator and the TV version expands it by starting the story in Argentina.
‘The Adventure of the Yellow Face’ is a Sherlock Holmes story from ‘Memoirs’. Very different in that Holmes gets the solution completely wrong and also at the end it transpires that no crime has been committed. Holmes tells Watson that if he (Holmes) gets too full of his own importance to remind him of this failure.
Z is for Zero and Zorro
Another difficult letter!
Towards Zero is an Agatha Christie book with Superintendent Battle as the main investigator. ITV made it into a Miss Marple mystery. The book is set at a place called Gulls Point and the description fits around Dartmouth or Salcombe.
Zorro is another mystery character – like the Lone Ranger hides his identity behind a black mask. I remember the short films at the children’s Saturday morning cinema in Chesterfield – the ABC Minors. Resurrected of course in more recent films.
Created over 100 years ago Zorro – real name Don Diego de la Vega – means Fox in Spanish.
The band of course. They were American but formed in UK when their fathers were with USAF in this country
I bought their ‘Greatest Hits’ album only knowing ‘Horse With No Name’ but there are lots of other great tracks on the album. My favourites include ‘Ventura Highway’, ‘Sister Golden Hair’ and ‘I Need You’.
This is the album cover.
B is for The Beach Boys
B might have been the Beatles but I will cover the individual members later.
I remember the Beach boys as a 17/18 year old with songs such as ‘California Girls’ and ‘Good Vibrations’. I went to a youth club at my local church and early Beach boys was often played there.
‘Pet Sounds’ is often regarded as an innovative album to which that not all members of the band gave their approval. It did produce excellent songs such as’ God Only Knows’ and ‘Sloop John B’
C is for Cream
One of my favourite bands and very short-lived. Formed in 1966 they broke up in 1968 after 4 albums. The main cause was seen as the tension between Jack Bruce and Ginger Baker. Baker was one of the finest rock drummers of all time.
I have selected 3 tracks:- Strange Brew, White Room and I Feel Free.
D is for Donovan
Folk has always played a part in music for me from going to a folk club over a pub in Chesterfield when I was 17/18 to listening to Swashbuckle in Brixham.
Donovan has a mixture of styles and influences and I suppose could be classified as folk rock. His early appearances were as a busker in Torquay – before I moved to Devon.
I have chosen 3 very different songs – which you can hear on my Spotify page – Catch The Wind, Mellow Yellow, Hurdy Gurdy Man
E is for (Keith) Emerson.
As the keyboard player with the Nice and Emerson Lake and Palmer he made a huge contribution to Progressive rock from the 60’s onwards.
My first encounter was ‘Five Bridges’ from the Nice. Side 1 was the eponymous 5-part suite based on the bridges across the Tyne. Side 2 was their own work but much based on classical pieces like the Karelia Suite by Sibelius.
He then moved on to form Emerson Lake and Palmer – a prog ‘supergroup’ which lasted most of the 70’s. Again they used a lot of classical work as the basis of their music and I first acquired ‘Pictures at an Exhibition’ based on Mussorgsky’s work. I chose ‘Great Greats of Kiev’.
Finally I have selected Aaron Copland’s ‘Fanfare for the Common Man’ – adapted with the composers blessing.
I have not ignored the other 2 members and will certainly come back to Greg Lake.
The only downside to Emerson’s playing is his insistence on abusing his instruments to produce feedback and other noises!
F is for Fairport Convention and Fotheringay
Two connected bands – the connection being Sandy Denny. A beautiful voice and an excellent songwriter whose life was tragically cut short.
‘Who Knows Where the Time Goes?’ written by her in 1967 before she was with Fairport is particularly haunting. On the ‘What We did in our Holidays’ were ‘She Moves Through the Fair’ and ‘Fotheringay’ The latter tells of the end of the life of Mary Queen of Scots and is my personal favourite.
She went on to use the title as the name for her own short-lived band.
The photos include the album cover for ‘Babbacombe Lee’ about the Torquay ‘Man they could not hang’. I appeared in a ghost story version of the tale in Kents Cavern.
G is for Genesis.
I am sure James Mackenzie-Thorpe will also choose Genesis but my preference is for the early years while Steve Hackett was still in the group.
I am not keen on the later ‘Phil Collins’ period.
My two favourite albums are ‘Trick of the Tail’ and ‘Wind and Wuthering’ and have included on my Spotify playlist two tracks from the former – the title track and ‘Ripples’. I have also included ‘Carpet Crawlers’ from ‘The Lamb Lies Down on Broadway’.
H is for (The) Hollies.
Back to my teenage years and one of the best groups not coming from Liverpool! Early songs I remember include ‘Just One Look’, ‘Yes I Will’ and ‘Bus-stop’. They were a very good harmony group.
Graham Nash went on to join Crosby and Stills, and later Young with such songs as ‘Marrakesh Express’.
My choices are ‘Carrie-Anne’, ‘He ain’t Heavy’ and ‘The Air That I Breathe’.
I is for Incredible String Band.
When I was briefly in London in the mid 60’s I did go to a few concerts and performances.
One such trip was to the Royal Festival Hall to see the above, which at that point was a duo of founders Robin Williamson and Mike Heron.
Not to everyone’s taste and usually classified as Psychedelic Rock! You can hear 3 tracks on my Spotify Music alphabet playlist.
J is for Jon and Vangelis
A fairly short-lived collaboration between Jon Andersen of Yes and Vangelis from Aphrodite’s Child. Vangelis already then known for composing the score to Chariots of Fire and Bladerunner.
They had 3 main albums between 1981 and 1986 and a later less successful one in 1991.
My three choices come from ‘Friends of Mr Cairo’ – the title track loosely based on the character played by Peter Lorre in The Maltese Falcon. The other two are ‘State of Independence’ and the now topical ‘Mayflower’. This version compares the Mayflower of 1620 with a space flight of the future – both setting off in ‘ search of a new land’.
K is for (The Kinks)
Back to my teenage years and particularly when I was at Uni in London. The Davies Brothers etc produced some great songs and a big variety of styles. Gentle tunes, sarcastic lyrics, and big rockers.
As usual I have chosen three:-
Waterloo Sunset. As my college was at Waterloo it reminded my mother of me at the time. The lovers Terry and Julie in the song were reckoned to be Terence Stamp and Julie Christie but this was later denied by the group.
Lola. About a transvestite and banned by the BBC not for the content but the inclusion of Coca Cola in the lyrics!
Sunny Afternoon. I just enjoy the lyrics! Later used as a title for a Juke box Musical about the band.
L is for (Andrew) Lloyd Webber.
A bit away from my normal choices but he wrote such great music and chose fine lyricists that I had to include him. I know he is not to everyone’s taste.
I have avoided the ‘big’ songs from the musicals instead choosing ‘Another Suitcase Another Hall’ from Evita and ‘Wishing You Were Somehow Here Again’ from Phantom.
Apart from in the film Another Suitcase is not sung by Evita.
Additionally the Pie Jesu from ‘Requiem’ – I have picked the Sarah Brightman version as I believe it was written for her. It is a beautiful song.
M is for Moody Blues
In my opinion one of the best and enduring bands of all time. I go back to the early days of ‘Go Now’ and then having the double compilation album of 1974 – ‘This is the Moody Blues’. My first track is from ‘Days of Future Passed’ and is not surprisingly ‘Nights in White Satin’. Very fond of Late Lament by Graeme Edge but spoken by Mike Pinder.
The first album I bought for Angela was – I think – ‘Question of Balance’. Two tracks from there – the sort of title track – ‘Question’ and ‘Melancholy Man’. difficult to keep it down to three.
I also had a late album by Justin Hayward and John Lodge called Blue Jays. Very good it is too.
I see that some members are still performing but mostly in the USA.
N is for New.
Having already used The Nice – a bit stuck for N so I have gone for 3 very different choices
New Vaudeville Band.
Finchley Central and Winchester Cathedral are two quirky songs from this quirky band. Average membership was seven and the main period 1966-68 though they re-appeared with a different line-up in the late 70’s.
From the New World.
Dvorak’s 9th (though originally 5th) symphony written while the Czech composer was Director of the National Music Conservatory in the USA. He was influenced by both Czech and American music. The ‘Largo’ is the best known movement – used in well known adverts!
Fairytale of New York
The Pogues with the late Kirsty McColl. Written in the mid 80’s as a Christmas Song though the lyrics are not exactly Christmassy! The BBC and other radio stations did make attempts to have some of the language modified before playing. Voted the Best Christmas song ever on many occasions including the UK in 2012.
O is for (Mike) Oldfield
Most of us of an age have bought and listened endlessly to Tubular Bells. So different to anything else when it came out. But Oldfield has done so much more. His second album Hergest Ridge was based on where he lived, and there have been numerous singles. He also produced Tubular Bells II – not quite as innovative.
TB was used in ‘The Exorcist’ and he composed the music for ‘The Killing Fields’.
Other than Tubular Bells I have picked 2 singles – the big hit Moonshadow and his version of the Christmas tune ‘In Dulce Jubilo’. (I used to sing the vocal version with the school choir!).
P is for Pink Floyd
A band which has entertained us for decades. Starting in the 60’s and going through enough departures, disputes, and returns to fill a full volume!
I chose an early single, a track from ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ and a track about Syd Barrett.
Although 2 of the original main line up are no longer with us they continue to play in this century in various line-ups. They also composed music for film including’ Zabriskie Point’ and their stage shows – see picture – were phenomenal.
The single is ‘See Emily Play’ though the strange ‘Arnold Layne’ was a contender. From Dark Side I have chosen ‘Breathe’ amongst many of the tracks I enjoy.
Finally the first half of ‘Shine On You Crazy Diamond’
Q is for Queen.
Who else? One of the few bands whose main line-up after John Deacon joined in 1971 never changed – until the death of Freddie. From the early days of the album ‘ Queen’ including Seven Seas of Rhye to ‘Innuendo’ – the last released in Freddie’s lifetime the range of music was phenomenal as well as the concerts.
I have not picked the most well known tracks – I know son James will also select Queen in his A-Z.
The first albums I bought were ‘Night at the Opera’ and ‘Day at the Races’ and I have picked ‘Teo Torriate’ – partly sung in Japanese.
From their film work I have chosen the theme from ‘Flash Gordon’ a silly but enjoyable film – especially to someone who watched the original character at he ABC Minors cinema club 60 odd years ago!
And lastly the only song the 3 remaining members of Queen recorded without Freddie Mercury – ‘No-one But You – Only the Good Die Young’.
Queen lives on without Freddie and John Deacon who retired using Paul Rogers and then Adam Lambert as front-men. There was also the rock musical ‘We Will Rock You’ which was on stage in London for 12 years.
R is for Renaissance
This is a band I have only really discovered properly over the last few years, though their biggest hit ‘Northern Lights’ dates to 1978.
The band was started in the late 60’s by two former members of the Yardbirds, but it is when Annie Haslam joined them as vocalist that they established their music. They are described as progressive rock with classical and folk influences and apart from Haslam’s tremendous voice the piano also plays a large part in the compositions.
Their line-up has seen countless changes over the years through departure and also deaths of members. Annie Haslam is still part of the band which is now almost entirely US based.
Apart from Northern Lights I have also included ‘Can You Understand’ and the 2013 ‘Symphony of Light’. The first includes an unmistakable theme from the film Dr Zhivago which the band apparently thought was a Russian folk tune.
S is for Santana
Toyed with The Shadows and Simon and Garfunkel but Santana won out. Brings back memories of the early 70’s when travelling around a sunny Devon on business listing to ‘Samba Pa Ti’ and the rest on the ‘Abraxas’ album.
Carlos Santana who formed the band is the only continuous member – and there have been over 70! I am not so keen on the ‘modern’ Santana but have included a track from his Guitar Heaven which includes many guitar classics by Beatles, Cream Hendrix etc.
T is for Tornados
Chosen because Telstar was my first ever purchase of a single record. A band which had been a backing group (including for Billy Fury) but nurtured by Joe Meek and issued a number of successful singles. Telstar was composed by Meek and was the first US No 1 by a British group.
I have also picked ‘Globetrotter’ and ‘Ice Cream Man’ – records I also bought and may be still somewhere in the attic!
Heinz – the bass guitarist when on to have a hit with ‘Just Like Eddie’ and George Bellamy – rhythm guitar – is the father of Matt Bellamy of Muse.
U is for ULLAdubULLA String Orchestra.
Not well known by this name but in fact part of Jeff Wayne’s ensemble for his ‘War of the Worlds’ productions and tours.
I bought the original album and still listen to it regularly. There are the masterly tones of Richard Burton as the journalist, and contributions form Moody Blue Justin Hayward, David Essex, Julie Covington and Phil Lynott of Thin Lizzy.
My favourite track is Haywards’ Forever Autumn followed by the opening speech by Burton.
The original album has been followed by numerous remastering etc, and tour, musical performances. We were booked to see one in London a few years ago – but of all things we couldn’t leave home due to snow.
V is for Venus
No bands etc for me beginning with V so a mixed bag under ‘Venus’.
Mark Wynter – ‘Venus in Blue Jeans’ from 1962 – my early teens. He is still about but acting rather than singing. Has been to the Princess at Torquay a few times with touring Agatha Christie plays.
Shocking blue – ‘Venus’. A hit in 1969/1970 often played in the clubs around Torquay when Angela and I were first together. They were from Holland but only really lasted a few years.
Gustav Holst – ‘Venus – Bringer of Peace’ from the Planet Suite. The Planets is one of my favourite classical pieces. I was first introduced to the suite when doing ‘Macbeth’ as a school play in the mid-sixties. The soundtrack for the play – then on 78 rpm records – had a battle scene sounding more like WW2 than medieval Scotland. The director chose ‘Mars’ instead and it worked well. I used Venus as background music for’ Humble Boy’ at the Palace Theatre in Paignton.
W is for (Rick) Wakeman
Probably one of the first names I thought of for this alphabet as he is certainly at the top of my list of performers.
He was training to be a concert pianist at the Royal College of Music but left to play rock music. He was a session musician on Bowie’s Space Oddity and on Cat Stevens Morning has Broken (for which he says he was never paid!).
He joined the Strawbs in 1970 and Yes in 1971. He left and re-joined Yes, and worked with some of his fellow members in a game of musical chairs and I’ll refer to that era under ‘Y’.
His first album was ‘Six Wives of Henry VIII’ and his most recent ‘The Red Planet’ – music inspired by Mars.
In between there were many albums but it is the early ones such as King Arthur and Journey to the Centre of the Earth which are my personal favourites. Red Planet is up with them in terms of musicianship.
So my choices – difficult to cut to three – are:-
From Six Wives – Anne Boleyn – partly because of the inclusion of ‘The Day Thou Gavest Lord is Ended’ was my mother’s favourite hymn.
From Journey – The Hansbach – representing the underground stream.
From Red Planet – the opening track – Ascraeus Mons.
X is for X-over – Crossover Music
Difficult to define and covers a multitude of styles, mixing rock, folk, classical and jazz – or any combination of 2 or more. Not always popular with purists of a particular genre.
My choices –
Sky – Gymnopedie No. 1 by Eric Satie. Led by classical guitarist John Williams the line-up changed often but initially included Herbie Flowers from Blue Mink and session drummer Tristan Fry. This track is from the eponymous first album.
Greg Lake – I Believe in Father Christmas. The ‘crossover’ is the instrumental part based on Troika by Prokofiev. Lake always said it was more a protest against the commercialisation of Christmas.
Freddie Mercury and Monserrat Caballe – Barcelona. A different crossover with a classical singer joining a rock star for a great production.
There are many others I could have chosen!
Y is for Yes
No contest here. A band I have followed through all the changes over 50 years. I am not a fan of the current line-up and consider Anderson Bruford Howe Squire Wakeman the best. They have had 19 ‘permanent’ members and countless others. I saw them live at Powderham Castle in 2004.
As with Wakeman’s solo career difficult to pick 3 tracks but I have settled with:-
1970. Very early Yes – Time and a Word -the 2nd album title track.
1973 Tales from Topographic Oceans. Long and not a favourite of Wakeman’s at all . My particular favourite side of the double album is ‘Ritual (Nous Sommes du Soleil)’ being the final track. By this time Alan White had replaced Bill Bruford as drummer.
1974 Wakeman left the band for the first time after ‘Tales’ and was replaced by Swiss keyboard player Patrick Moraz. The next album was Relayer and from this I have picked ‘Gates of Delirium’ My version is the single with ‘Soon’. A classic Roger Dean album cover.
Z is for Zombies, Zager and Evans & Zhivago
Three very different tracks of my years – all from the ’60’s..
1964 The Zombies led by Rod Argent and Colin Blunstone. The big hit which is on my list was ‘ She’s Not There’. I saw them live at the ABC Cinema in Chesterfield -courtesy of free tickets from the manager who was a near neighbour! I still have their autographs somewhere!
1965 The epic David Lean film of Dr Zhivago taken from Boris Pasternak’s novel. At the time the book was hated by the Communist regime but now on the curriculum in Russian Schools. The most famous track is ‘Lara’s Theme’ but I have picked Yuri and Tonya arriving in Varykino because of the way the music fitted Lean’s cinematic view. I never tire of the film or Maurice Jarre’s music.
1969 Zager & Evans. Must classify as a one-hit wonder. ‘In the Year 2525 (Exodium & Terminus)’ to give it its full title. A fairly depressing view of the future at 1010 year intervals.
Tailpiece
The problem with an alphabet this this is that some letters yield more options than others. This means that with the best will in the world many great songs, singers and bands don’t get a look in.
Looking at my list there is no place for Rolling Stones, Dylan, The Who, Led Zeppelin, Dire Straits to name a few. Also countless folk tunes, some classical stuff and swathes of Prog Rock.
A big omission is of course the Beatles but I have not forgotten them but left the four for this tailpiece so not using up other letters.
So here is one form each – either solo or from an album:-
Imagine – Lennon
Yesterday – McCartney
While My Guitar Gently Weeps – Harrison
Don’t Pass Me By – Ringo
The last two are on the White album which I consider the best.
In this strange period I have done ‘Alphabets’ of 2 of my main interests being pubs and railways. So I am adding a third which is ‘Theatre’. I don’t have that many photos as I was mostly stage-managing so have included programmes instead.
A is for Aladdin.
Done this more than once, latterly as stage manager for Wonder Productions.
The programme cover comes from an early production by KATS (Kingswear Amateur Theatrical Society) which I both wrote and directed. We did about 12 pantos in all and they were great fun and popular in the village.
B is for Black Coffee.
Black Coffee is the only Agatha Christie play with Hercule Poirot as a character ( and incidentally the only one not played by David Suchet on TV).
Bijou Theatre Productions have done it three times during my time with the company, and for the first two I was Sir Claud Amory – poisoned at the end of Act 1. The first picture is from the first of these when James Mackenzie-Thorpe was the murderer – the swine!
In last year’s third version I was the butler Tredwell and for all 3 I was also Stage manager.
2nd photo is from the second production.
C is for (A) Christmas Carol.
I have done 2 full productions and in both cases I had a small part (Businessman) and stage managed the production.
2001 was Mark Cartier’s excellent production with a splendid if complex set. Angela Mackenzie-Thorpe did the props including the Cratchits Christmas Lunch with gravy ‘hissing hot’. A stickler for detail Mark wanted the gravy to steam – which it did. To Angela’s consternation the audience could not see it due to haze being used for effect!! The cast list is from this show.
Pictures are from 2001 and then the 2012 Bijou Theatre Productions version by John Mortimer.John Miles as Scrooge with Richard Bearne and Ian Caplan . (he was in 2001 as well).
D is for De Sul.
Not theatre but a film. I did quite a few short films , as well as TV and film extra work but De Sul was one of my favourites and a great experience.
The film was an award winner at the Cornish Film Festival and was filmed entirely in Cornwall and in the Cornish Language. De Sul is Cornish for Sunday. It centres around the Cornish pilchard industry in the late 19th Century. A shortage of fish is causing hardship in a village such that when fish is spotted on a Sunday the men go out fishing against the wishes of the local priest (played by me) who objects to working on Sunday.
It was an fascinating time – I had to learn the Cornish script phonetically. We went as a family to see the premiere in Falmouth and I was surprised to see my face everywhere as per the poster.
I was hoping to find an on-line link to see it – but can’t find one.
A two-hander with a huge amount of lines for the 2 characters to learn but Nicola Samuel-Stevens and Mark Wilkins did a fine job. I was in my usual stage managers corner while the set had to be full of books which are then packed away at the end!
A very good production.
F is for (The) Farndale Avenue Housing Estate Townswomen’s Guild Dramatic Society Murder Mystery!
Surely the longest title of any play – somebody may correct me! Also one of the funniest plays with which I have ever been involved. It was my first production after years of absence from the theatre after I left school.
The picture is the only connection I have but this was the professional production at the Princess Theatre with Faith Brown and Anna Karen. My production was Dartmouth Players at the Guildhall and a far better show. As it is about the failures of an amateur production it worked better when done that way. The modern ‘The Play that goes Wrong’ seems an updated copy.
Suffice it to say that bits of the set -which I helped to build with Edward Kelland fell down, actors went missing, lines were forgotten – etc etc.
I would love to do it again.
G is for (The) Ghost Train.
Arnold Ridley’s (later of Dad’s Army fame) classic 1920’s thriller set on a Cornish railway station. This play is important to Bijou Theatre Productions as 65 years ago it was a first production for the company. I was last involved in 1998 in a Mark Cartier production with splendid lighting and effects from Mark and Clive Simmons. They were such that the stage appears to vibrate as the ‘ghost’ train ran through the station. I was stage manager then and the first 2 pictures are from that time. The third picture is for the current production in which I will play the stationmaster (type casting!) and Clive will stage manage as well as devising the effects. It was due to be on in April 2020 but postponed to next year due to the virus.
H is for Henry V
Outdoor theatre now.
One of Dartington Playgoers many Shakespeare productions in the private garden at Dartington Hall.Directed by Leon Winston and with an excellent cast this was a fine production – but the weather was not always fine!
I was originally – with James doing special effects for battles, fire lit camps etc, but the expected lighting operator did not materialise so a quick learning curve on a computer board for the first time and I was ‘ promoted’. Our youngest came in to assist James with smoke machines and Angela decided to join us all and help with men’s costume changes.
The weather was OK for the performance but on the Sunday in between the heavens opened and I had to dry out (thankyou WD40) every 15 amp plug in the circuits.
The maroons supplied for the battle noise were the loudest you have ever heard – though they were marked medium! We also had an unexpected visit from a hot-air balloon which descended briefly to look at the proceedings.
I is for (An) Inspector Calls
One of JB Priestley’s ‘best plays.
I was involved in a Bijou Theatre Productions version a few years ago. I was stage manager and helped Roger Bloxham with the building of what was a great set of an Edwardian dining room. The set was dressed by Angela..
The play revolves around a northern family, visited by an Inspector Ghoul who questions the family about the suicide of a young girl. It appears they all have some connection – but who is the Inspector? There is no-one of his name in the local force.
J is for Jack and the Beanstalk
Back to pantomime.
I have done ‘Jack’ a few times but this is another from Kingswear back in the 90’s.
Kingswear Hall stage is quite small. both in area and height so there was no real prospect of ‘flying’ a beanstalk. The obvious solution was a horizontal beanstalk, held at each end by a stagehand while the characters pretended to ‘climb’! It seemed to work!
We always got a good review in the Herald Express as the writer was a former Chairman of the Parish council who may have been a bit biased. His only criticism was an annual – SPEAK UP A BIT!’
K is for Key for Two
This farce by john Chapman and Dave Freeman I have staged managed twice as per the two pictures – both for Bijou. The common denominator is Ian Cooper – appearing in the first and directing the second, The problem for the set builders fir a farce is DOORS. You always need more than usual and trying to get them to stay open or closed on the Palace Theatre’s raked stage has driven many of us – especially Ian Caplan – to distraction.
In the second show we had Andy Killen Rachel Saturley Stephanie Austin Martin Austin and the much missed Yvonne Tilley. Tim and Susie Stubbs can also be seen in the photo.
L is for Last of the Summer Wine.
A Bijou Theatre Productions play I was looking forward to – and indeed was in it. It was a good production and funny but perhaps didn’t transfer to the stage as well as say ‘ Vicar of Dibley’. All the usual characters were there – played by some usual suspects.
Andy Killen was Compo, Colin Baker Clegg, and Stuart Sutherland was Foggy. They were joined by Yvonne Tilley as Norah Batty. Trying to ride a bike on stage at the same time as acting drunk was interesting! Also it was one of my first sets for Bijou and I was quite pleased with my interpretation of Clegg’s front room.
M is for the Scottish play! i.e.Macbeth
Certainly my favourite Shakespeare – probably because it was my fist real acting part at school. I also learnt a lot abut backstage work – props – effects -music. It was more than 50 year ago and I played the part of young Macduff -horribly murdered by Macbeth’s men.
In the Dartington production James played the same role. The Dartington Playgoers version was certainly different with 27 witches (3 times 3 times 3!), unlike the school production which followed the traditional way.
I have also seen a few professional versions including Paul Scofield at the the Old Vic in 1967 and another at the Northcott, Exeter.
N is for Noises Off
This very funny Michael Frayn play was my stage management ‘debut’ for Bijou Theatre Productions and something of a baptism of fire. The play requires 2 different sets – 1 for Act One and Three, and a one for Act Two. Big theatres may have a revolve making it easy but the Palace Theatre required the ingenuity of Ian Caplan to ‘add’ an set in the first interval and take it away in the second. Thoroughly enjoyable start to a long and continuing association with Bijou. Also notable for the first use of the f-word in a Bijou production!
O is for Oklahoma!
A musical I have been involved with twice.
In 1988 I was Deputy Stage Manager to Simon Bennett in the BOADS production at Brixham. A fairly traditional production but very good all the same. Notable for the dress rehearsal when the band got the National Anthem wrong and the MD insisted on stopping them and starting again. Simon not impressed as he was timing the show. Also at the dress I got rather enthusiastic with the smoke machine in the ballet scene and the band and the first 3 rows were invisible!
In 2002 I stage managed a Paignton Operatic show directed with his usual style by Mark Cartier. Well designed and lit and very successful.
There was a common denominator in that the late Peter Randall – then Dartmouth town Crier – played Judge Andrew Carnes in both shows.
One of my favourite musicals.
P is for (The) Provident
Something quite different. The Provident was a true Brixham Community play, written by David (Spud) Murphy, produced by Phil Trayhorn and directed by John Miles. . The cast came from all parts of Brixham. Rehearsed at BOADS rehearsal room. A real collective effort.
Andy Killen was there again with Graham Mewis who had been in the Brixham Oklahoma! -see under’O’ .Gordon Smith as a chief petty officer and I got to play a Commander.
The story of the Provident centres around New Years Eve/Day 1914/15 when the Brixham trawler went to the rescue of the crew of HMS Formidable, sunk by a German torpedo. The trawler crew were awarded medals at Buckingham Palace by the King.
Q is for Quartet.
One of two very good plays I have done from Ronald Harwood. I will come to the second one later.
Quartet tells the story of four residents of a home for retired theatricals who are persuaded to perform together again to sing the Quartet from Verdi’s Rigoletto in honour of the composers birthday. It is not a simple as it sounds due to the history between the four of them.
The play has just the 4 actors with a couple of voices off and is set in a garden/music room of the home. A clever set designed by Roger Bloxham and directed by Ruth Bettesworth.
I recently saw the film version with an excellent cast but of course there is always the need with a film to expand from the simple stage setting and include more actual characters. Although still very good, it is not as effective as on stage.
R is for Relative Values
A Noel Coward offering by Bijou Theatre Productions some 23 years ago now. A typical Coward comedy reflecting on the mixture of Hollywood and the English aristocracy due to the wish of an Earl to marry an American actress. The staff at the stately home concerned also get involved.
The Bijou production was a little fraught. I was asked to be stage manager but as rehearsals began a few cast dropped out for various reasons. I ended up playing the character of an Admiral and James Mackenzie-Thorpe took over in the corner.
There are many recognisable faces in the photograph – including the Director Geoffrey Wildey.
.S is for Spiders Web.
I had a serious choice for S but Spiders Web just won it over Shadowlands. The latter was many years ago and all 4 members of the family were involved.
Agatha Christie but was postponed due to the pandemic. The production below was 7 years ago and this would have been my 13th Agatha! Unlucky- but we’ll be back next year.
In this production I played the genial Sir Hugo.
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T is for Treasure Island.
Another Kingswear pantomime. When I set out to write I re-read the book only to find it wasn’t a belly load of laughs. My script took a lot of liberties with Stevenson’s original!
The best part of this show was that Rod Farrell – who will many of you have known as a rehearsal pianist – wrote a whole set of original songs – words and music, Very good and funny. two memorable ones were ‘Walk the Plank’ and ‘Cheese’ – the latter written for the part of Ben Gunn.
For any locals in Kingswear who read this there are some memorable names in the cast. In the picture the main man is the late Malcolm Chapman of Brixham.
On the first two occasions i was the ‘body’ as the curtain opens to find a man dead in a wheelchair with his wife standing next to him with a gun. fortunately on both occasions I was facing upstage and did not suffer from other cast members trying to make the body laugh! for the rest of each show i was stage manager.
The man in the wheelchair had a male attendant looking after him with the splendid name of Angell and it was this character I played in version 3. (2nd picture)
V is for Vicar of Dibley
Before Last of the Summer Wine, Bijou Theatre Productions had tackled another transfer from television to stage. The Vicar of Dibley was different as it was not a new story specially written, but a series of extracts from the sitcom series including the wedding of Alice and Hugo.
All the usual characters were there including the whole Parish Council and I played the yes, yes yes no character of Jim Trott. The whole saga was directed by John Miles. Apparently there is a sequel but not such a good script.
Unfortunately I can’t find any of my photos of the play so you will have to make do with a programme front!
W is for When We Are Married
J B Priestly’s excellent play in which I have appeared twice.
In one of my earliest performances (in 1986) this was with Dartmouth Players at the Guildhall.
Edward Kelland and I had designed and built the set and then appeared as the reporter and Ormonroyd the drunk photographer respectively.
More than 30 years later I once again helped to build the set and appeared as the harassed local preacher Reverend Clement Mercer. Lots of pictures from the two shows – Dartmouth first.
X is for eXtra!
I was a TV and film extra (or Supporting Artist) for a few years in my 60’s and had some enjoyable days and some long boring ones. I generally enjoyed those days and would carry on if it wasn’t for early mornings and long distance driving.
Two of the good days were the final scene for King Arthur with Clive Owen and Wolfman with Hugo Weaving.
King Arthur was filmed at Hartland Point with about 500 extras but I was at the front as they preferred real beards. The day was memorable for Clive Owen going missing – watching England playing in the World cup on an extra’s phone – and Geoffrey Wildey bagging a lift back to base in one of the helicopters!
James Mackenzie-Thorpe was not impressed with the film as a whole regarding it as 2 hours of his life he would not get back.
I did 2 days on Wolfman, the second day handing over the family silver to make silver bullets!
I did a few episodes of Casualty – usually a patient lying on a couch and also Down to Earth for BBC1. On the latter worked with Bernard Cribbins and Ricky Tomlinson on Bayards Cove at Dartmouth. Great characters.
The 2nd picture here is from a Dutch TV advert for gin where I was Captain of a sailing ship – in this case on SS Great Britain in Bristol.
Y is for Youngsters
All theatre companies have an ageing ‘workforce’ and audience and it is our job to bring youngsters in to secure the future. That means on stage, back stage, front of house and in the audience.
One of the best ways to do that is through pantomime. my picture is of some of the youngsters (excluding Edward Kelland!) in one of Kingswear pantos. we had a principal that if any one came along to consider joining we gave then a part – however small – regardless of ability. for some it was the making of them, giving confidence etc.
The other element of panto is audience participation especially the sing-a-long at the end. That few minutes on stage can whet their appetite for many years to come.
There are often parts in the more serious productions. Bijou Theatre Productions often has a part for a young actor or actress. Agatha plays have a few such parts, and the second picture is of A Christmas Carol which needs Tiny Tim and his siblings. Oliver! also provides many parts for younger actors.
Palace Theatre has recently had sixth-formers on work experience who have stayed on to do all sorts of front of house work and set building/get outs.
What ever the role encourage them – they are the future!
Z is for …. THE END
I can only think of one play beginning with Z – Zigger Zagger which I have neither been involved with or seen!
So save your best for last. And the best play for me is another Ronald Harwood – The Dresser. I have been involved with 2 productions and seen two others. One of these was in London with Julian Glover and Nicholas Lyndhurst and was very good. I have seen the film but the transfer from stage didn’t work that well.
My own involvement was backstage with Dartington Playgoers and as Oxenby in the Bijou Theatre Productions presentation in 1986. The Black and white photos from this production didn’t scan too well but many Bijou stalwarts are there. Mark Wilkins (who also took the photos) was ‘Sir’ the ageing actor-manager and Joe McNulty was Norman.
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I would love to do this again and have my eye on the character who has to take over as Fool when his fellow actor is arrested! If you have never seen it – you must!
In 2006 – with a bit of spare cash – we took what can only be described as in the old chestnut – ‘The Trip of A Lifetime”. This is a selection from the trip from East to West and back across the USA.
A is for Amtrak
As we travelled the whole trip using Amtrak it seems appropriate to start with 2 photos of locos in California -which was about 1/2 way through the trip.
Generally the service on and off the trains was excellent but the tracks are controlled by signallers paid by the freight companies and freight trains get priority. We never had a single train on time – I think about 6 hours was the worst delay!
B is for Boston
We arrived at Boston on the last stage of our 2006 visit to the US, but we had been a few years previously.
On out first visit we did the customary trolley tour which are always entertaining in any part of the States. Our first driver/guide was Igor. The problem with Boston is that they go on about the Battle of Bunker Hill (which they lost) and the instruction ‘Don’t fire till you see the Whites of their Eyes!’ It gets a bit wearing in the end! They didn’t even invent the phrase – it goes back to the 17th Century.
That said we liked Boston. It was the first place we visited in the US and at the moment our last.
One of the highlights of our second visit was the Kennedy Museum. You will also notice Dartmouth Street and Faneuil Hall.
C is for Chicago.
Our first stop after Washington on the tour. Less than 24 hours which wasn’t enough for this ‘windy’ city. A trolley tour late afternoon after arriving. There was an irritating group of younger visitors annoying the driver – so he dropped them off at the aquarium but forgot to tell them it was closed!
Next morning a walk by Lake Michigan with great artworks including the millennium ball. The bulk of the city transit is the ‘L’ or elevated railway which we didn’t have time to travel.
D is for Dining
We ate on trains for at least 1/2 of our tour – the meals were included in the ticket. The experiences were generally very good – if you could avoid sitting next to a garrulous American or one who wiped everything with an antiseptic cloth. (and that was 14 years ago!)
Breakfast was usually some version of bacon and eggs though on one occasion – to her eternal regret – Angela tried the American staple ‘grits’. They live up to there name!. Lunch was some form of sandwiches and there was a two course dinner.
Bottled Samuel Adams from Boston was usually available and one of the pleasures was travelling in Parlour Cars like the one on the Coast Starlight down the West Coast. Pictures below. Great Steward on this one!
E is for Emeryville and Oakland.
Although San Francisco had many municipal trains. trolleys etc, the main line form Seattle to Los Angeles does not cross the bay into the city.
Southbound you de-train at Emeryville and cross into SF by bus. When leaving to continue south you cross the bridge by bus to Oakland to continue your journey. More about San Francisco later in the alphabet.
The problem when we were there was two-fold. firstly the southbound train for Los Angeles was 3 hours late and when we arrive at LA our bags are still in Oakland!
Oakland is one of those cities with the main railway running down a main street. The sign in the photo was near the station.
F is for Flagstaff AZ
Flagstaff is a city in central Arizona. We have only been once but we love it. It sits at 7000ft above sea level so the air can be a bit thin and there are mountains to the East. (Picture 1). It has at least three claims to fame. It is on Route 66, the home of the Lowell Observatory ( picture 2) where Pluto was discovered and is a convenient train stop to visit the Grand Canyon (See G !).
We arrived at Flagstaff Station (Picture 3) early morning and after a brief rest had breakfast in a diner on Route 66. The station booking clerk in sorting out an upgrade for us was brilliant. flagstaff station has only 2 passenger trains per day – the Up and Down South West Chief. There are however over 100 freight trains per day on what was part of the Santa Fe railroad.
Even better are two (now three) brew pubs being the Arizona Brewing company and Beaver Street Brewery. The latter did excellent food.
G is for Grand Canyon
It does matter how many photos you take, or hours of video you film you can beat just having been there! (See picture of grockles!)
We travelled on a minibus tour from Flagstaff (see F !) with about 8 others and a knowledgeable driver/guide. Our first stop was Bright Angel – near the terminus of the Grand Canyon Railway. Terrific views, watching the mad idiots on the very edges and seeing people at the bottom of the canyon. They have since built a horseshoe shaped glass walkway out from the edge. No No No!
We also travelled east along the South Rim to the Hopi Tower Picture 4) and stopped at a Pueblo village ruin for a picnic lunch. There was snow on the ground as we were over 7000 ft. We were also privileged to see a small group of elk.
H is for Hollywood
During our short stay in LA it seemed compulsory to do a trolley tour passing studios and into the Hollywood area.
We got closer to the famous sign than the view from the hotel window. We called at Hollywood Bowl and past various studio entrances. I recall the guide telling us about where certain people live but I wasn’t interested enough to remember. He did say that residents did not like to regular visits by tourists.
We did a tour of Universal later but this was restricted to shops and displays – nothing to do with actual filming.
I is for Izaak Walton
Amtrak’s Empire Builder service crosses the United States from Chicago to Seattle and Portland, travelling just south of the Canadian border.
In the State of Montana the train crosses the Rocky Mountains and passes through the Glacier National Park. We passed by as light was falling but the snow covered mountains were spectacular.
So where does Izaak Walton – writer of The Compleat Angler – come in? Well an Inn in the small town of Essex, halfway between West And East Glacier – is named after him! (1st picture)
J is for Jewellery
Not much by way of ‘J’s on our trip. Angela has an interest in jewellery – not the expensive diamond type stuff (fortunately) – but local stone from the area.
On our way from Flagstaff to Chicago on the South West Chief we passed through New Mexico and the main stop was Albuquerque. The station there was apparently relatively new the and the train stops there for a good while of re-fuelling, crew changes etc.
As we pulled in we noticed long line of tables packed with wares from Native Americans and Mrs MT could not resist the black Haematite necklace or the greenish one in turquoise. As you can see from the picture it was a beautiful clear and very warm day.
Digital Camera
K is for Kennedy
As mentioned under B for Boston we visited the Kennedy Museum on our second visit to the city.
All ex-presidents since Hoover have left a library of their presidential papers for the use of the public. Obama’s library is likely to be mostly digital, but all the other 13 are in designated buildings.
We found thte artefacts from his successful election campaign in 1960 very interesting in particular, but the whole place was well worth the visit.
These pictures are internal – the one of the building is under ‘B’
L is for Los Angeles
I’ve already mentioned out Hollywood tour. On the other day we took a Metro ride south with the intention of getting to one of the Pacific beaches. We only had a limited time and a fatality on the line put an end to that idea.
We did visit Chinatown the station for which is built in a Chinese style. We bought some items in the big market there.
The main Los Angeles Station by way of contrast is very Spanish in its look. It was there we encountered the only unhelpful Amtrak employee but compensated with good beer in the station Bar.
M is for Metros
Like the UK Metro and other light transit systems are expanding in the US. We travelled on those in Los Angeles, Washington and Boston. The first two were very modern and efficient though it took us about 15 minutes to work out the ticket machines in Washington.
Seattle does have an aerial railway but that was out of action as a carriage had hit one of the buildings it passed en route.
San Francisco has all sorts including BART -Bay Area Rapid Transport -more under ‘S’.
Boston is referred to in ‘Charlie on the MTA’ a song from the Kingston Trio from 1959. Charlie didn’t have 5 cents to exit the subway so was destined to spend his life riding it.
The pictures are Washington, Chicago Metro from the road and LA.
N is for New York
Cheating a bit as New York was on our previous trip. But you cannot do an American alphabet without the big city.
It was our second visit but longer than the first, staying in an apartment type place near Central Park. We did all the tourist things – a tour round Manhattan by boat using the Hudson and east Rivers, Angela went up the Empire State Building – I just went into the Chrysler Building where I was told politely but firmly not to film inside.
Also a ‘London’ Bus tour around all areas including Harlem and a subway trip across the Brooklyn bridge then walk back.
And I found real ale breweries and bars – of course!
O is for Observatory
As mentioned under Flagstaff we visited the Lowell Observatory just outside the town. a fascinating place, famous for the telescope used by Clyde Tombaugh in 1930 when he discovered Pluto.
The observatory was founded as long ago as 1894 by Percival Lowell of Boston and is still run by one of his descendants.
Pluto has had an up and down career as a planet. Originally thought to be the 9th planet in the solar system it was eventually down-graded to a dwarf planet and there are similar bodies in the same region.
The observatory was used by NASA in mapping the moon and was visited by many of the proposed Apollo astronauts. It is quite high up, the air is thin and it is in a dark sky region.
P is for Poughkeepsie
Again I am returning to our stay in New York. A trip to the big apple is not complete without a visit to Grand Central Station – surely the most magnificent station in the world. As well as a visit we also took a ride on a local service along the Hudson river travelling to the city of Poughkeepsie about 75 miles north.
There is nothing remarkable about the place which is typically American but the views from the train were excellent.
I didn’t get many pictures of Grand Central on this trip so below we have two of Poughkeepsie and one of the Hudson River.
Q is for Question
and the question I get asked – is there any decent beer in the US? The answer is yes.
Numerous small breweries and brew pubs can be found all over the States. The beer is a little fizzy compared to our real ale but generally is pretty good. You will also find imported UK beers such as Bass, Fullers ESB and Coniston Bluebird.
Digital Camera
I’ll mention a few we visited:-
Washington – Capitol Brewing Company – beer brewed on the premises. DA Front room taps – see beer menu – a common idea over there.
Chicago – Clarks Ale House.
Seattle and other places – Rock Bottom – a small chain of Brew Pubs.
San Francisco – lots – and more nowadays. 21st amendment after the one that abolished prohibition ) Thirsty Bear.
Flagstaff – ABC (Arizona Brewing company, Beaver Street Brewery.
Boston – the Sevens. Sold Bass and Rick Wakeman had been there
R is for Railway Architecture
I have already referred to stations like Grand Central and Albuquerque, but it seems as if there has over the years there has been a civic pride in American cities to have an imposing station as a landmark.
Cities like Washington and Seattle – see below – have particularly imposing buildings. I mentioned our trip to Poughkeepsie and although this is a small city (or large town in our terms) it too has a large booking hall -see photo 3.
You can also look back at Flagstaff for a smaller but still pleasant building.
S is for San Francisco – Part 1
We aimed to be in SF for our 35th Wedding Anniversary and it didn’t disappoint.
Lunch (including Clam Chowder) overlooking the bay and Alcatraz, It is a bit like Blackpool on a Sunday! Evening going round places like Chinatown – eating and also drinking real ale
Next day – Golden Gate Bridge, Palace of Fine Arts, movie locations like Towering Inferno on a guided trolley tour (converted bus!) It was excellent though going over the Golden Gate at speed was a little unnerving! And for the first time (over 55 here) we were classed as seniors!.
Another suitcase had to be bought due to excess purchasing by ………
Also travelled on the F-line – streetcars from all over the world. Trolleys tomorrow!
T is for Trolleys (San Francisco 2!)
Although we have been on quite a few ‘trolley’ tours in US, they are just converted road vehicles. Nothing is quite like the real San Francisco Cable Car system.
From a maximum of 23 routes, there are now only 3 routes effectively left and we travelled them all – at least twice!. One set of 2 lines is operated using single ended cars and therefore need to be turned at each terminus (Picture 1). The other line has double ended cars.
The system operates by a grip being closed over a continuously running cable below street level. This is operated by an employee called a ‘grip’ and there is also a conductor..
One of the most interesting places – to me – in SF was the cable car museum. Sited over the powerhouse you can see the drums operating the cables, and there are other exhibits as well. (other 2 pictures)
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People till ride these by hanging on as seen in films etc and there are many accidents each year.
U is for United States of America!
There are 50 states – 48 in the main land area plus Washington D.C. We managed to travel through 23 + DC – nearly 1/2.
Most of our journey was in the north and west so we missed out on the Southern States.
The Amtrak Empire Builder runs from Chicago to Seattle and Portland and travels through 8 states along the border with Canada.
Pictured are three stations on the route – St Pauls in Minnesota, Williston in north Dakota and Havre in Montana. Station stops were for refuelling, re stocking – and smoking!!
V is for View from the Train!
This is really a continuation of yesterday when I mentioned the number of States we had passed through. Yesterday’s photos were from the Empire Builder.
Today these are from the South West Chief – the Amtrak service form Los Angeles to Chicago. They only cover the journey from Flagstaff onwards as the first section was at night!
We have the spectacular scenery of Arizona, the giant Mississippi River and Fort Madison in Iowa. We would dearly love to return to see places like Monument Valley in AZ. We cross the Mississippi on a giant bridge which has a swing section. The river traffic takes priority over rail and we had to wait for the bridge to be closed. Fort Madison was the scene of many battles etc though I think the picture is of a replica.
W is for Washington.
Nearing the end of the alphabet but covering our first stop.
Washington seems a typical capital city with the usual Government Buildings, museums etc (and rough sleepers). A day and a half was probably not enough. for instance didn’t have time to visit the Smithsonian but went to the White house, the Capitol, Arlington Cemetery and the Lincoln Memorial. close to the latter are the Vietnam (see picture) and Korea Memorials – both interesting and very moving.
Lunch in the Hard Rock Cafe -very good – but miss seeing George Bush at the hotel. Lots of security outside but as residents we just walked in without query – and AMT was wearing a rucksack!
X is for Crosses and Crossings.
In an alphabet like this X is always difficult and leads to bending the rules!
I have chosen Arlington Cemetery for Crosses and Railways for Crossings.
I mentioned under W that we visited Arlington – mostly to see the Kennedy Memorial but we were quite late and were within 20 feet of it when a polite steward/guard said we had to leave as they were closing. No chance of us sneaking a quick look. The cemetery reminds me of the picture of the Commonwealth Cemeteries in Europe.
An enormous number of rail/road junctions in the US are light controlled crossing rather than bridges. some do’t even have lights or warnings. The trains do the warning by hooting from miles away. The first crossing is in Dolton Illinois – headquarters of Union Pacific and the second in Flagstaff. At the latter some 100 trains a day pass – but only 2 are passenger trains – the Up and Down South West Chiefs.
Y is for New York!
Well – we didn’t go anywhere beginning with Y and New York is so good they ‘named it twice’ !
So here are a few classic sightseers shots from our 2004 trip. not necessarily in order but there is the
Flat Iron Building,
Liberty (which we found underwhelming),
Owls in the Natural History Museum ( the whole tale had to have owls somewhere!)
River Bridges- one is Washington Bridge I think
Times Square at night
Carnegie Hall
One of the memorials at Ground Zero.
Z is for The End.
After 7475 train miles, 23 states, 7 cities and 3 weeks we left Boston at the end of the ‘holiday of a lifetime’!
And there is the plane that brought us home.
The trip was planned by me but the bookings were all done by Paignton based travel adviser Suzanne Wren. Almost faultless.
For all its problems, then and now, the US is a great place to visit. Very welcoming, very interesting, and we’d go again (if the Lottery comes up!).
Postscript
Angela suggested I should show on a map where we went – so here it is with the main Amtrak Journeys highlighted and the names of the services shown.
Washington – Chicago – Seattle – San Francisco – Los Angeles – Flagstaff – Boston.
Another ‘Lockdown’ project. An alphabet of engines, stations and remains of places I have visited over the years.
A is for Advanced Passenger Train.
This was a train capable of high speed due to ’tilting’ round bends. A design that started in the ’60s resulted in three trains sets operational by 1979 and running a passenger service briefly in 1981. They ran again in 1984 but by then the HST’s had proved their worth and the APT was abandoned. Some of the technology was sold to Italy and now we have Italian designed tilting trains on the network!
The press had a field day with the problems and I have always been very amused by the Private Eye cover below.
My photo was taken at Locomotion in Shildon where it is not well displayed.
B is for Beddgelert
The Welsh Highland Railway is one of my favourite lines and will appear here a few times I expect. Formed in 1922 by merger of North Wales Narrow Gauge Railway and the Porthmadog, Beddgelert and South Snowdon Railway it ran from Dinas – south of Caernarvon -to Porthmadog.
It was never profitable and became insolvent very quickly and trains ceased in 1937.
The long protracted battle to reopen it would take pages to recount, but rebuilding began in 1997 and finished in 2011. The northern section from Dinas to Caernarvon is on the track bed of the old LNWR.
Beddgelert station is roughly on the original site behind the Goat Hotel.
C is for Chesterfield
My home town and where I started trainspotting in the late 1950’s. A bridge over the Great Central line from Nottingham to Sheffield provided a perfect view of the London to Sheffield Midland line. In the days of steam Jubilees, Patriots, and occasional bigger engines were our main spots.
There was a third line into Chesterfield Market Place on the Lancashire, Derbyshire and East Coast Railway which did not reach either Lancashire or the East Coast! Closed in the 50’s but the enormous brick structure of Horns Bridge remained for many years until it was demolished to make way for a roundabout!
The picture is of a Class 60 freight loco passing through the station.
The town was also home towards the end of his life of George Stephenson of Rocket fame.
D is for Ddualt Deviation.
When re-opening of the Ffestiniog Railway by preservationists was proceeding, the line could not be opened to Blaenau Ffestiniog as a considerable length of track was under water following completion of a new reservoir. Llyn Ystradau is part of a pumped-storage hydro-electric scheme.
The old track bed can be seen in the photo above. It rose gently upwards towards Blaenau. The Deviation to take it north of the reservoir required a much steeper ascent and a spiral deviation was constructed, mostly by volunteers, over 13 years from 1965-1978. This included a new tunnel blasted out by Cornish miners. This is the only spiral in the UK though there are many on the continent.
The spiral can be seen in this photo.
E is for Ecclesbourne Valley Railway.
This is a 9 mile heritage railway from Duffield (where there is a connection to the Derby to Matlock line) to Wirksworth. From Wirksworth there is a small additional branch to Ravenstor and the National Stone Centre.
It will have changed a lot since my photos were taken in 2012 – we didn’t have time for a trip but it was very welcoming. They run steam, diesel and railcar services.
I was much amused by this photo of a sign on the postbox.I did look for an extra lady but she’d gone!
F is for Flying Scotsman.
A little reluctantly as it is by no means my favourite locomotive. After the cost of the last rebuild by the National Railway Museum it has been nicknamed the ‘Flying money Pit’! Personally I think Locomotion, Rocket, City of Truro etc as important if not more so.
Built in 1923 it was a ‘celebrity’ almost from the off being used to promote the LNER at exhibitions everywhere. In 1928 it was chosen to haul the first train of the same name from London to Edinburgh. in 1934 it was claimed to be the first locomotive to exceed 100 mph but we Great Westerners know differently!
When retired from service in 1963 BR wanted to scrap it but was saved by Alan Pegler. The history in preservation would be pages in itself but suffice to say it is now owned and run by the National Railway Museum.
My first recollection was when it worked on the Paignton to Kingswear line in 1973, having woken us up on arrival in the middle of the night. Angela later got stuck behind it going up Kings Ash Hill after another visit to the PDSR.
My photo is the only one of mine I can find – showing the boiler under repair at the NRM. The one below shows it in its latest running mode.
The Flying Scotsman
G is for Grosmont.
Have made a couple of visits to the North Yorks Moors Railway. Each time just made one northbound trip. Grosmont is now where you can either get a steam train through to Whitby, or change to a Northern Rail service. Last time we were at Whitby a service was running but diesel hauled.
I think my first photograph here – from 2005 – is my favourite railway photo without an engine!
It is a line I need to visit again and view more than just the terminal stations.
H is for Hope Valley Line.
A line from Sheffield to Manchester calling at many stations on the southern edge of the Peak District. I used it when I went walking both in my teens and on many later visits.
Not only is it used by local stopping services but also fast service from West to East and vice versa. Also a lot of freight traffic including from the cement works at Hope.
There are good pubs in Hope and Edale not far from the stations and it is a particularly attractive line during winter snow.
I is for Ingra Tor Halt
It is one of 5 stations on the Princetown Railway which ran from Yelverton for 10.5 miles to its terminus. The line opened in 1883 but the halt not until 1936 as a ‘tourist’ stop.
Now an excellent pretty level walking route. Ingra Tor Halt (first picture) was noted for a station sign warning of the presence of adders.
The was also a halt further on at King Tor – some remains of which can still be seen. The whole line closed in 1956. It was used for a time for transport of prisoners to Dartmoor Prison, and by staff from the gaol. Princetown terminus is the second picture.
J is for Junction
In this case Ashburton Junction. This is the name given to the junction just north of Totnes mainline station where the branch for Buckfastleigh and Ashburton left the main line.
At one time there was a signalbox in the space between the lines but this was alter taken over by Totnes Box and now Exeter Power Box.
So when the signalbox on the South Devon Railway was commissioned it was named ‘Ashburton Junction’. The box itself is GWR original formerly at Cradley Heath in the West Midlands, having in the meantime spent time at Tyseley.
My pictures show the box at Tyseley and 5542 passing the box while running round.
K is for Kingswear
Now my ‘home’ station. Previously the terminus of the line from Paddington with long distance expresses hauled by ‘King’ class locomotives and down to local passenger trains. Also in the past busy with coal unloaded on the quay and taken to Hollicombe Gas works and to local coal merchants.
It was bought by Dart Valley Railway in 1972 – now Dartmouth Steam Railway – which has operated heritage steam and diesel services since then.
Photographs are from the pre-heritage era showing a distant view and a close-up from the buffer stops.
During the heritage era it has often been used for film locations including ‘The French Lieutenant’s Woman’ and an episode of Poirot. The 3rd picture shows Meryl Streep as the title character walking up from ‘Exeter’ station. Our flat at the time was over the pub used in the film and Meryl Streep was in our front lounge for filming!
L is for Llangollen Railway.
This 10 mile long heritage line runs from Llangollen itself to Corwen, at all times alongside the River Dee. Being ex GWR line, much of the stock and engines is ex-GWR.
The original line ran from Ruabon on the Shrewsbury to Chester line to Barmouth on the Cambrian Coast. It closed to passengers in 1965 exactly 100 years after its completion and first opened as a heritage line in 1975. The track to the east and west of the line is now no longer available as much is covered by modern developments.
A section of the line forms the Bala Lake Railway which is now narrow gauge.
The pictures show Llangollen Station and also Berwyn station with the Chain Bridge in the background..
M is for Metro.
For many years British cities and large towns had trams including Chesterfield and Torquay. These trams are in part preserved at the excellent Tram Museum in Crich, Derbyshire – well worth a visit.
Fortunately they have returned in the form of Metro Services in many places including Sheffield,Nottingham and Croydon. Three that I have travelled on (as well as Sheffield) are Tyne and Wear, Manchester and West Midlands. Many run partly on old railway tracks but there is also a lot of street running.
It was Tyne and Wear started first in 1980, Manchester (Metrolink) in 1992, and West Midlands in 1999 – that’s the order of the pictures below.
The West Midlands at the moment has only one line and Metrolink is the most extensive. I travelled on it to the East Lancashire Railway at Bury.
N is for Newton Abbot.
Before my time in Devon Newton Abbot was a busy railway centre. Lines for Moretonhampstead and Kingswear diverged from the main Great Western Line. The Moretonhampstead line now cease at Heathfield and is rarely used. The line to Kingswear remains but beyond Paignton it becomes a heritage line.
The shed -code 83A built in was the main steam depot between Exeter and Plymouth. although it was adapted in 1962 to accommodate diesels it was more or less closed in 1970. The access to the platforms used to be over the UP main lines but they were lifted some years ago and the main London platform now has a flat entrance.
Newton Abbot was one of the sites of a pumping station for Brunel’s Atmospheric Railway which ran for a very limited time in the 1840’s. One pumping station building remains at Starcross.
My photos are of the current station and a Francis Frith Postcard from 1907.
O is for Oxenholme Lake District.
The station is the junction for the line to Windermere via Kendal. I used it many times on trips to the Lakes.
So despite it being a small village a large percentage of express services stop there for transfers. The station was opened in 1846 and extended to Carlisle in 1847. Despite opposition from persons such as William Wordsworth who thought that railways would be a disaster for the Lakes, the branch opened in 1847. A map of the line is shown below.
The original line was double, with run-round facilities at Windermere but it was later singled and the station moved a allow a supermarket to be built on the original site.
P is for Porthmadog
Terminus or starting point for both the Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland railways. The station buildings were constructed around 1878/79 but there have been improvements since the revival of the railways in the 60’s and since.
Latest addition was to widen the Cob to add a new platform for the use of the WHR. The larger box in my photo is the new signal box. From the station the FR crosses the cob, past the works at Boston Lodge and on to Blaenau Ffestiniog (2nd picture). The WHR crosses the main street by the side of the station on its way to Caernarvon (3rd picture).
Another great asset of the station is Spooner’s Bar, named after James Spooner and family who were involved in the formation and development of the Ffestiniog. an excellent selection of local real ales is always available.
Q is for Queensferry.
North and South Queensferry are the villages on either side of the Forth Bridge. North has a station by that name but South is served by Dalmeny Station. The ferry in the name ceased to operate in 1964 when the Forth Road Bridge was opened. That too has been replaced by a new bridge as the original could no longer cope with modern traffic.
The rail bridge was constructed over an eight year period from 1882 and is a cantilever design. It was the first such structure in steel and was designed to avoid the problems of the Tay Bridge which had collapsed some 3 years earlier.
The old adage about ‘painting the Forth Bridge’ meaning starting again when you finished was never strictly true as there was always a maintenance crew and some areas were done more often than others.
The last repaint in 2011 is now supposed to last 20 years.
R is for Ramsbottom and Rawtenstall.
These are two stations on the East Lancashire Railway, Rawtenstall being the northern terminus of the 12 mile run.Passenger services ceased in 1972 but coal continued for another 8 years. The preserved line re-opened in part in 1987 and the extension to Heywood in 2003.
I have travelled on it twice, both times a full return from Bury. The station at Heywood was added later.
The line operates a wide range of steam, diesel, and railcar services. Bury was also the home of Ian Riley Engineers, well known for their expertise with steam traction. They have also moved to Heywood.
S is for Sheffield
When I was a train-spotting youngster there were two main line stations in Sheffield being Midland (which still remains) and Victoria.
The latter was on the old Great Central line from Chesterfield and then was electrified through the Woodhead Tunnel to Manchester London Road. The power was 1500v DC and locomotives were changed at Victoria between steam and electric. Passenger services stopped calling in 1970 and the station demolished in 1989.
Sheffield Midland was built in 1904 and is now the only mainline station in the centre.
The prestigious train service that has run for many years is the Master Cutler named after Sheffield industry. Having originally run from Victoria it was switched to Midland in 1968 has had various forms of traction. It runs early morning to London, returning early evening.
The station now has the benefit of a Sheffield Supertram stop just outside.
The pictures are Victoria in 1957, midland today and a Supertram
T is for Totnes Riverside.
The place on the South Devon Railway where I have been volunteering for close on 25 years.
The station has been created from a greenfield site in 1969 to a triple award winning ‘GWR Station’ Most of the buildings have come from other parts of the GWR area.
As I write this the station and all its associated wagons are ‘mothballed’ due the the current crisis but we hope to be back there soon.
Some of the buildings are in the pictures below.
The Bovey Hut at Totnes Littlehempston Station. 22nd July 2011
U is for Underground – Overground. (not the Wombles!)
I have travelled on the Underground in London thousands of times but rarely bothered to photograph. The map below is the modern version of that originally designed by Harry Beck in 1931, but now including the Overground, Docklands (see picture), Trams etc.
Personally I really enjoy the docklands system both the trains and the views. Of course there are other underground systems in the UK, particularly the ‘Clockwork Orange’ in Glasgow, and parts of Newcastle Metro and Merseyrail all of which I have travelled on at least part of the Network.
V is for Valley Lines.
Now under the umbrella of Transport for Wales the Valley lines radiate from Cardiff to destinations such as Merthyr Tydfil, Treherbert, Barry, Maesteg and Cardiff Bay.
A few years ago David Kelland and I attempted to do as many lines as possible in one day. There were not as many re-opened then but we didn’t complete. We did of course go past Barry – the graveyard and saviour of many steam locos. Few were left by then.
There is supposedly great investment in track. electrification and rolling stock but they have still occasionally used loco haulage such as the class 37 below.
W is for Welshpool and Llanfair Light Railway
This 2ft 6in narrow gauge railways runs from Welshpool (Y Trallwng in Welsh) to Llanfair Caereinion a distance of 8.5 miles.
Originally the line ran from the centre of Welshpool but latterly has run from a new station at Raven Square. It opened in 1903 and closed in 1956. It was re-opened in stages from 1963 as a preserved railway.
Two of its locomotives – No 1 Earl and No 2 Countess are original locomotives built for the line by Beyer Peacock on 1902. Under GWR and then BR they were numbered 822 and 823.
X is for Crossing!
There are a number of X shaped flat crossings around the world but the most well known in the UK is at Newark where the East Coast Main Line is crossed by the Nottingham – Lincoln Line (first picture). It is also the last remaining on main lines.
The main line is of course electrified and trains on that are permitted to travel at 100 mph. There are plans to replace it but these a complicated by the proximity of the River Trent.
There is another similar flat crossing at Porthmadog in North Wales where the Cambrian line from Barmouth is crossed by the Welsh Highland Narrow Gauge near Porthmadog Station. The second image shows a WHR Garratt crossing the standard gauge line.
Y is for York
York is undoubted one of the best cities in the UK and its station is equally grand with its curved platforms and overall roof. first photo is modern, the second in the days of steam.
The original York Station built in 1841 was inside the city walls and entailed a hole being made in the walls and also reversing of all trains.
The current station outside the walls was completed in 1877 and is a Grade II* listed building. The adjoining Royal Station hotel outside the station was opened in 1878.
Apart from through trains under (at the moment) the LNER banner between London Kings Cross and Edinburgh, services also go to Scarborough, Sheffield, the north East and other parts of Yorkshire.
Outside, the York Tap – a conversion of Victorian tearooms – is a splendid real ale bar.
Z is for Zeal Tor Tramway.
Always difficult to find a Z but fortunately Dartmoor has the remains of this tramway – also called Red Lake Tramway.
It was built around 1847 to carry peat from Red Lake to the naphtha works at Shipley Bridge. 4 miles long it was constructed with granite sets, with wooden rails. It did not last very long but was later used in the 1870’s for moving china clay.
If you walk from Shipley Bridge in the Avon Dam area you can still see remains.
1969First decision to install loop line at Totnes. Initially all services were run as auto-trains (push-pull)
1970 The loop opens.
1975 There are discussions about ‘Totnes Project’ for station and bridge. 3 stages considered – 1) Platform and halt. 2) Bridge. 3) proper station. Excavator arrived on Sept 4th.
1976 Trains do not run to Totnes while the layout is revised.
1977Totnes loop is commissioned.Platform 1 now under construction. ‘Bridge the Dart Appeal’ launched for a footbridge to connect to Totnes.
1981 The London Group set up the ‘Totnes Project’ to build up the station including purchasing a building from British Rail. Application for planning permission for Totnes Footbridge is submitted
1982 Toller Station purchased from British Rail for £500. It is dismantled on site and then transported to Staverton by early February.
1983 Plans for the bridge are put on hold due to financing.
1985 Trains begin to run direct into Totnes mainline. At the same time the first bricks are laid for Totnes Riverside station.
1986 Foundations are laid for Bovey Hut.
1987 The station is renamed Littlehempston Platform, then changed to Littlehempston (Riverside).
1988 The station building is ‘topped out’ Platform bricks recovered from Ivybridge are laid on Platform 1. Plans are made to bring Athelney signal box to Totnes. Running into Totnes BR stops at the end of the season for financial reasons.
The London Group find the canopy for the platform at Axbridge.
1991 The line is taken over by the volunteers as theSouth Devon Railway Trust.
1992 The Bovey Hut is completed. The station wins its first award – the Worth Valley Railway Award for the best new project.
1993 Work on the bridge over the Dart starts in May, and contracts are put out for the toilet block and bay platform.
The Bridge (named ‘Bulliver’)opens on 23rd July and Totnes station is manned from now on.
1994 A Totnes station group is formed. Work begins to landscape the area behind the station. Work on the toilet block and canopy is completed by the end of the season.
Station is now renamed Totnes (Littlehempston).
1995 6th May. Totnes is formally handed over to the Trust by the London Group and the Totnes group – led by Mark Ireland – begins running the station.
1996 Work continues on Platform 2 and laying of platform bricks along Platform 1 continues.
1997 3rd May. Virgin Class 47 47814 was named Totnes Castle on the completed platform 2 as part of the SDR 125 celebrations.
1998 Mess Van acquired from Crewe is in Platform 2 and work starts to get it looking smart and usable. Saturday Volunteers start getting lunch provided. The water crane gets a coat of paint.
1999 The Monster arrives at Totnes.
2000 The path from the bridge to the station gets a proper tarmac surface. We acquire 2 crossing gates – one to go across the main line link.
2002 Platform bricks for the Totnes end of the platform (3000) arrive and are laid on summer Wednesday evenings.
2003 Work starts on bringing the Cradley Heath Signal Box from Tyseley to Totnes. The footings have been dug in advance and bricks for the base arrive.
2004 The main part of the box arrives at Buckfastleigh by road, ready to be dismantled and taken up the line to Totnes. By the Autumn the bulk of the box is on its base.
2005 Totnes moves into the present with the installation of electric lighting in the buildings and on the station. The CCT arrives as a new workshop. The signal box – as a building – is complete.
2006 Laying platform bricks over the whole platform is now complete.
2007 Station wins its second main award – GNER volunteers award from Heritage Rail Association. The award includes £1000 which we used to replace the plastic sheets on the toilet roof and station canopy with toughened glass.
2009 Phone box arrives – hauled all the way from car park.
2010 Crossing gate across Network Rail connection finally fitted and fully painted. (It was removed in 2018 as no longer adequate for Network Rail standards). Phone box complete and in situ with working light and a faux A&B telephone.
2011 The TMD (Formerly a Traction Maintenance Depot) is transported from Staverton and erection is nearly complete. Now TMD stands for Totnes Maintenance Depot
2012 Water tower completed by the fitting of its lid. The wagons under repair are now covered by the huge tent to provide cover while work goes on.
2013 Second lamp hut from Bridgwater arrives and is our garden machinery store. The first of 2 GWR 5-plank wagons is restored .
2014 The log store is completed. We start work on refurbishing our CCT, (Car Carrying Transport) removing umpteen layers of paint.It will be painted in brown and new lettering applied as in the British Railways era. The MICA becomes our magazine store.
2015 Second 5-plank restoration complete. Installation of the bike rack begins. The ‘new’ spear fencing begins to arrive.
2016 Another award – probably the best! The Heritage Railway National Interpretation Award was given to us for recreating an authentic GWR station from nothing, using buildings etc from other parts of the region, together with new buildings where required. The presence of the Rare Breeds Farm was also a contribution as giving visitors another option.
The town was also home towards the end of his life of George Stephenson of Rocket fame.
Station is now renamed 
Beer, Steam and Toasted Tea-cakes 