A week away for Angela and me, travelling by train and bus to the Lakes and onward to the Peak district. Our two bases were Kendal and Chesterfield.

DAY 1

In order to cut travelling costs I split the journey from Paignton to Kendal in to 4 trips. Paignton (after a good breakfast in Jades) to Bristol was by the newish high speed sets with plenty of room.

An hours break a Bristol gave us time to walk down to ‘The Sidings’ (previously had many other names including ‘The Reckless Engineer’). An acceptable pint of Bath Gem (4.1%).

Stage two was on a more crowded train from Bristol to Birmingham – a sandwich stop – then on a ‘Pendolino’ for the first time.

Our tickets were only to Lancaster but it was easier to change at Oxenholme. We were not on the trip to Kendal for long enough to have to buy a ticket! No taxis and a longish walk to Premier Inn.

After eating at the Inn we sought out the Kendal pubs in the Good Beer Guide. Our first stop was at the Olde Fleece Inn. Not over impressed – still want to know if you are eating and have to wait to be seated. I didn’t know that. There was a local ale on called Kendale (4%) – not to bad. But then they asked if we were staying as they wanted to close up – not even 10 p.m..

Much better – and remained so all week – was the Fell House Bar run by the Fell Brewery all in house products at reasonable prices. I had the Ghyll Bitter (3.7%) most of the time while AMT had ‘Thunder Before Lunchtime’ (4%)– a hazy beer.

Very friendly place.

DAY 2

Breakfast at Premier Inn – no buffet here.

Tipping with rain as we make our way to Bus Station. AMT’s bus pass has run out and not been renewed ‘as she hadn’t used it?). So negotiations on bus to allow use of out of date card.

Open Top Service to Windermere, Bowness, Ambleside and Grasmere. Fortunately the front 10 seats or so are covered not that we can see much. Recorded commentary all the way.

The rain that falls on back runs down in torrents as we go downhill but runs aawy on uphill stretches.

Grasmere very wet -well it is October in the lakes. Nice tea in converted chapel, visit Wordsworth Grave and the excellent St Oswald’s Church. Gingerbread bought -well you must, mustn’t you?

Beer today is at Tweedies Bar. A large bar with hundreds of pumpclips from previous beers from all over UK. We had the local beer as you should. Lakes Brew DDH pale (4%) for me and Cumbria Loweswater Gold (4.3%) for Angela. Both very good.

Return on the 555 through service (Kendal to Lancaster) though a bit drier. Kendal disappoints as a pub town. We wlk up to the ‘New Union’ – in the GBG and supposedly doing food. But they are not and it wasn’t a great welcome. Eat again at Premier Inn.

In the absence of anywhere else return to the excellent Fell House where I have the Glisky (4.6%).

DAY 3

As we will be using a number of busus today we buy a rover ticket for AMT to save complications.

After an in town breakfast at Bob and Berts – not bad but not cheap – we catch the 555 again this time all the way to Keswick – in the rain! We have a tea etc in Booths supermarket – a tremdous shop which huge quantities of excellect looking fresh food. Some indecision as the road around Derwentwater – my plan for today – is partly flooded.

After touring Keswick we catch the 108 – I think – taking a route via the foot of Catbells to Rosthwaite and beyond. Still raining but great views over Derwentwater though you can’t see much of the mountains!

At Rosthwaite search for an invisible farmshop and so as we have nearly 2 hours to kill head for the Scafell Hotel Riverside Bar where I have been many times before. Unfortunatley no lunchtime food at this time of year but the liquid offerings of local beersTirril Old Faithful (4.0%) and Corby Blonde (also 4%) merited 2 rounds to wash down the crisps!

Lovely to sit in the bar and watch the river Derwent rush past the window (nice outside area in the summer).

On the way back we stopped in Windermere to try and find somewhere to eat. After an abortive search we went into the Elleray Arms where I’ve been before. We were short of time before the bus but they were very helpful and produced two good starters in quick time. Think the beer was Black Sheep but can’t remember and didnt write it down!

In the evening I went on a lone search of other Kendal GBG pubs to no avail. The one I found had closed early (another one)! So a few more in the Fell House.

DAY 4

Today’s plan was bus to Coniston if for no ther reason than to drink some Coniston Bluebird, named after Donald Campbell’s boat. Breakfast in Bob and Berts again and then the open-top in much better weather. Stop off at Bowness by the lake for a while then onwards to Ambleside.

The bus ride to Coniston is an experience not to be missed . Most of the route is on not much better than single track road and even in the quieter autumn there is much traffic – most of which copes with passing a bus!

Coniston village is unfortunately well away from the lake as we found when buying a map from the Information Centre. (it was a donation but you would dare not make one! Run by volunteers I think. Bought a hat!

Coniston is full of pubs – I remember the Sun Inn – but we went into the ‘Black Bull Hotel’ home of the Coniston Brewery. I had the Bluebird – as good as I remember – Angela the XB version – also good. (Both 3.6%).

Eat a snack while waiting for return bus – which was even more eventful! Stuck in a queue for at least 15 minutes waiting for people who could not or would not reverse. (Bit like home really!)

In Ambleside I recalled a cafe in a back lane called ‘Sheila’s Cottage’. Still there and still good. A cream tea of scone, jam, cream (Cornish unfortunately), Borrowdale Tea Bread and Lancashire Cheese. Lovely.

Snack from Booths in Windermere for tea -and just visit the Fell House again for more good beer.

DAY 5

From the Lakes to the Peaks. Two very cheap tickets by going from Kendal to Manchester Piccadilly and then onward to Chesterfield. Confusion when taxi takes us to Oxenholme by mistake but only charged for the shorter journey.

This was not a national rail strike day and the trip to Manchester was fine. However, East Midlands Trains had been hit by a strike and our train was cancelled. Helpful Newtork Rail employee guides us in direction of Northen Rail via Hope Valley to Sheffield which we catch after snack on station.

Heaving -as it has passengers for 2 trains on it and dozens are standing. Fortunately I was quick enough to get seats. I also think it was here I picked up Covid! Off at Sheffield where an stupid woman tries to get on before we were all off. She got some abuse -not only from me!

When on Sheffield Station – where do you go? To the Sheffield Tap of course! Thornbridge Jaipur (of course) and Astryd (3.8%). The place never disappoints!

This evening is at Premier Inn to which we travel by X17 bus.

Stay in town – visiting the Pig and Pump (formerly White Swan etc). I have Ossett White Rat (4%) while AMT has more Jaipur.

Then a taxi to Chesterfield Arms and Neptune Beer Emporium. In the former it is the in house brewery Resting Devil – Twisted Pale (4.2%) and Changeling (4.5%). In the Neppy Jaipur and Ashover Poets Tipple (4%).

DAY 6

To Castleton after breakfast in the excellent cafe opposite the Premier Inn.

Bus to Bakwell – get day pass for AMT from helpful information centre – and after tea/coffee catch the Castleton Bus. Usual lovely ride through the Dales -easpecially Cressbrookdale.

Disappointment at the Nag’s Head in that the lovely platter we had before was not on the menu. Settled with Whitebait and a good ploughman’s but not quite the same.

However the beer was very good – Distant HillsBrewery glossop Hoodwinked (4.0%) and Superfortress (4.4%).

After timetable confusion catch a late running bus to Sheffield and an X17 to Chesterfield.

An evening trip down to Whittington moor where we share some sausage and chips outside the closed Derby Tup. Round the corner to the Beer Parlour. AMT had Abbeydale Deception (4%) and I had Ashover White Lion (4.6%).

(I think all these beer allocations in Chesterfield are right but the back of a beer mat I wrote them on wasn’t clear!!)

Then to to Glassworks – Brampton Brewery pub for Ascalon (3.8%) and Tudor Rose (4.6%).

Finish in the Chesterfield Arms

Day 7 and LAST (not counting the journey home!)

Best weather of the holiday. To Baslow and on the Chatsworth House by the bus (which also calls via Holymoorside). We find today that in Derbyshire they give 14 days grace when a bus pass has expired. That could have saved us a few bob!

Bravely we decide to walk fro the house back to Baslow – just short of two mile. Quite a lot of stopping and starting but we made it.

Lunch is in the Cafe on the Green – formerly the Goose Green Cafe. Very good sandwiches and cups of tea.

Collect a lot of conkers (or cobjoes as i called them as a child) and then bus back to town.

We also get a bit of food for tea.

Evening just walk up to the Neptune and Chesterfield Arms -AMT getting a spring roll en route. Only new beer this evening was Daleside Bitter (3.7%) in the Neptune.

Despite the minor hitches – a good week and some great beer!